Changing strings on a 12-string

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scrumhalfscrumhalf Frets: 11314
I can no longer avoid the issue - I need to change the strings on my Yamaha electric 12-string.

Other than having to change twice as many strings, are there any things I need to take into consideration before attacking the task with my usual combination of enthusiasm and incompetence?
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Comments

  • BridgehouseBridgehouse Frets: 24581
    Allow at least 4 hours for tuning afterwards.
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  • impmannimpmann Frets: 12668
    Do it methodically - I tend to change them one at a time, rather than taking all of them off in one go. That way, you can tune to pitch and then stretch, retune before moving onto the next. Plus it keeps the majority of the tension on the neck - which means less movement when the new strings are brought up to pitch (some cheap whippy necked 12 strings can be buggers to retune because the neck is settling back in - the Yam is likely to be better than that though).


    Never Ever Bloody Anything Ever.

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  • dogloaddogload Frets: 1495
    impmann said:
    Do it methodically - I tend to change them one at a time, rather than taking all of them off in one go. That way, you can tune to pitch and then stretch, retune before moving onto the next. Plus it keeps the majority of the tension on the neck - which means less movement when the new strings are brought up to pitch (some cheap whippy necked 12 strings can be buggers to retune because the neck is settling back in - the Yam is likely to be better than that though).


    This!
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  • SassafrasSassafras Frets: 30294
    Just rejoice in the fact it'll sound twice as good as a 6 string.
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  • scrumhalfscrumhalf Frets: 11314
    Thanks, chaps.

    I suspected that removing all of the strings could induce unwanted floppiness.
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  • usedtobeusedtobe Frets: 3842
    I bought a 12 string once. I couldn't get rid of it fast enough!
     so if you fancy a reissue of a guitar they never made in a colour they never used then it probably isn't too overpriced.

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  • AlnicoAlnico Frets: 4616
    dogload said:
    impmann said:
    Do it methodically - I tend to change them one at a time, rather than taking all of them off in one go. That way, you can tune to pitch and then stretch, retune before moving onto the next. Plus it keeps the majority of the tension on the neck - which means less movement when the new strings are brought up to pitch (some cheap whippy necked 12 strings can be buggers to retune because the neck is settling back in - the Yam is likely to be better than that though).


    This!
    +1

    It's no real difference to a 6 string (Aside from the obvious) but more work and it's easier to make sure you have hold of the right string before putting it on.

    Stretching in is no different except for that high G,....................I usually just go as far as i dare and then resign myself to it going out of tune for a day or so while i play it.

    I usually play pinball wizard on one afterwards to give it all a good rattle and then retune. 

    I miss my 12 string now.
    Why did i look at this?

    Best of luck.
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72442
    Exactly the same as changing them on a 6-string, only there are twice as many.

    I've never understood the whole '12-strings are hard to tune and change strings on' thing - why are they any different from a 6? If you can string and tune a 6-string so it stays in tune, you can do the same with a 12. If you can't with a 12, you're going to have trouble with a 6…

    Exception: Rickenbackers, purely because of the half-slotted headstock design. Even those aren't a problem if you do them in the right order - all three post strings off first on one side, then the slot strings off starting at the far end. Then fit the new ones in the reverse order starting at the nut end, then do the same again for the other side.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • earwighoneyearwighoney Frets: 3497
    edited November 2016
    ICBM said:
    I've never understood the whole '12-strings are hard to tune and change strings on' thing - why are they any different from a 6?
    I'm going to disagree with you there Sir ICBM.

    With a 10-47 12 string set, off the top of my head, the octave G is 0.008 and tuning that 3 steps above the high E string can be pretty daunting/it's a lot of tension for one string.  If you are like myself and use alternate tunings (e.g. Open C), with off the shelf string sets, I find some of the octave strings often lack tension and consequently can be tricky to keep in tune. 

    Tuning/restringing a 12 string isn't as complex as many make it out to be, it does take a few times to get used to.
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  • monofinmonofin Frets: 1118
    I tend to just sell the guitar to @impmann and then buy it back with new strings :)
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 16730
    Tuning the 12 string neck on my double neck was a revelation.  It's a 5-piece maple/Purple Heart neck through with carbon fibre reinforcement.  It really was as stable as tuning a 6-string.

    i have never had that level of stability on 12 before
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  • earwighoneyearwighoney Frets: 3497
    edited November 2016
    WezV said:
    Tuning the 12 string neck on my double neck was a revelation.  It's a 5-piece maple/Purple Heart neck through with carbon fibre reinforcement.  It really was as stable as tuning a 6-string.

    i have never had that level of stability on 12 before
    My Guild F-212 has a 3 piece neck, I've had it just under 10 years and it's 12th fret action still matches the quality control set up card it came with!  I've used countless different open tunings and different string sets.  Not even had tweak the truss rod!  

    I'm a big believer of multi piece laminate necks/CF rods; the latter being one of my favourite 'modern' innovations (multi piece necks aren't modern, but I think they are great)
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