My first body build - Spalted Beech

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Hi Guys! 

Thought I'd share my first build, I'm attempting to make the body from a block of wood, the neck I'll be using is a lovely bird's-eye maple one I picked up at the Birmingham Guitar show a year or so ago.

I picked up a lovely chunk of heartwood Spalted Beech and below is the current status of the build including some of the working pictures (I made this for a post on social media). I've purposely left some of the bark on the back and some of the rough edges showing for that raw look, the neck pocket is the only part currently routed out.

https://s16.postimg.org/czm8vhyxx/IMG_20161130_200129.jpg

The plan is to have one P90 and an adjustable bridge (because I'm sure I won't set it in the right place first time) with Les Paul Jr esc controls.

I know beech isn't a traditional tone wood but the grain is beautiful and it's my first build so I'm hoping it will sound nice once complete. 

Does anyone have any advice for me going forward as it my first build?

I'm thinking a wax/oil finish, I just want it very slightly darker so thoughts on this would also be welcome? 

Thoughts on Beech? Similar to maple in tone?

The hunt is on for hardware so if any of you lovely people have a good quality P90 (I'd love a scatter/hand wound) or some Gibson esc hardware laying around then let me know how much you want for it! 

If there's any interest (or probably even if there's not) I'll post again after I've done some more work. And sanding, lots of sanding.

Here's a couple of better pics.
https://s16.postimg.org/ag7in98ut/IMG_20161130_185422.jpg
Raw Wood:
https://s15.postimg.org/7sm5jn40r/IMG_20161127_233657.jpg
Back:
https://s12.postimg.org/qrikc4dyl/IMG_20161130_185737.jpg
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Comments

  • WezVWezV Frets: 16793
    oil and wax will work best  for the finish, it will bring out the colour a but but keep it pretty raw...  you might want to do something to stabilise the bark if you plan on keeping it


    i won't say too much tonally, i have only ever used it for tops... but i don't think its as resonant as maple.  it will depend on the piece.  Its hard to predict though, as a piece like this clearly has very erratic grain.  i wouldn't worry about it

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  • DannyDanny Frets: 4
    Thanks for the reply, I'm not too concerned about the wood tone.. I'll try to pick up a good quality P90 second hand to compensate.

    For the bark I'm going to water down some pva and get it into all the hard to reach areas, it's actually on pretty solidly though as it stands. 

    My main concern is the bridge at the moment, I want to get a good action but with a bit of movement as it's my first build so I'm undecided on the type to go for.

    Dan
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  • RolandRoland Frets: 8763
    edited December 2016
    Go for a Fender Telecaster style bridge. There's more room for adjustment than on a tunomatic, which makes it easier if you don't get the positioning perfect. 

    Nice piece of wood
    Tree recycler, and guitarist with  https://www.undercoversband.com/.
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  • DannyDanny Frets: 4
    edited December 2016
    Good idea! I had shone away from a tele bridge at first as I wanted to keep as much of the grain visible as possible but I have an old unbranded tele bridge lying around and I could cut off (like the ones Wilkinson do) which would give room for the P90

    If I put some upgraded brass sadles on it I'd guess it would be a pretty good bridge? Or is it worth spending a bit more on maybe a squire or fully adjustable one? By that I mean with 6 adjusters rather than 3.

    Thanks!
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  • RolandRoland Frets: 8763
    A cut off bridge, which doesn't extend as far as the pickup, is a good idea. Although you'll then have to mount the pickups directly into the body. If you also avoid using a pick guard you'll be able to see more of the wood.

    There's a lot talked and written about 3 or 6 saddles, and what they should be made of. Personally I'd get a modern 6 saddle steel bridge. 
    Tree recycler, and guitarist with  https://www.undercoversband.com/.
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 16793
    I don't think the difference between 3 or 6 saddles really matters since it's not a tele.... go with what you have for now and you have options to change saddles and other easily replaceable parts  later if you need to do some tonal control
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  • DannyDanny Frets: 4
    Thanks both, I've always been expecting to route out for a P90 so that's not an issue. 

    Im hoping to not use a pick guard if possible but if I do it will likely be a cut 6 inch vynl. 

    I think I'll go with the bridge I have currently and maybe change the saddles later down the line.

    Thanks for your input guys! 

    It's nearly midnight and I'm sanding, haha.

    Dan
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  • DannyDanny Frets: 4
    Oh, I'd really appreciate any tips when it comes to measuring out and fitting the bridge.. I guess that's my next job.

    Dan
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  • RolandRoland Frets: 8763
    Download and print out a template, and stick it to the wood with double sided tape
    Tree recycler, and guitarist with  https://www.undercoversband.com/.
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