Suggest A Drill Press

Nomad

WezV said:

not sure what i am trying to say, except maybe i wouldn't buy  one with extra clearance just to do a job that can be done other ways... depends how many guitars you are making

I'm tempted to agree. The main reason for getting a decent drill press is to take the heavier work off my little mill (which has a decent throat at ~140mm, but poor quill travel at 30mm). It does feel like it's on its limits with 30mm forstner bits into hardwood, and I'd rather not have increased wear on the gears. The quill travel can be a pain at times, although it's possible to drill in stages.

Number of guitars is probably not many. After the prototype, I envisage making maybe three, and probably a bass. Beyond that, I have no specific plans - there could be more, or I could get into something different. The drill press does need to suitable for guitar making jobs, but I'm into all sorts of making, so it would be pretty general purpose in the longer term.

I'm not terribly into string through types, so I don't see that as an essential capability and, as you say, there are other ways to do it in any case.

Nomad

'Tis done. I ordered the fixed throat floor standing one. Should be here on Saturday.

Thanks all.

Corvus

My press is floot standing but sits on a low platform/trolley with castors. It's tucked into a gap between a bench and tall cabinet, which is fine for small stuff but for long beams or whatever it slides out. It doesn't walk even without locking castors but that might be an idea.

Another way to square the quill/table, a bit of steel rod, welding rod, coat hanger etc, chuck it up, bend it outwards. Spin that around and check the gap vs the table as it sweeps around.

Nomad

Corvus said:

My press is floot standing but sits on a low platform/trolley with castors. It's tucked into a gap between a bench and tall cabinet, which is fine for small stuff but for long beams or whatever it slides out. It doesn't walk even without locking castors but that might be an idea.

Aye, if that has enough stability, it would be better than fixing it in place.

Corvus said:

Another way to square the quill/table, a bit of steel rod, welding rod, coat hanger etc, chuck it up, bend it outwards. Spin that around and check the gap vs the table as it sweeps around.

Or, chuck up a bit of ground rod and check for runout, and if good, use that with an engineer's square to set up the table.

Corvus

Rod & square is the standard way but , the sweeping pointer is just easier to see & judge all around the table and it magnifies the out-of-true.