Can someone help me with getting the right binding router bit?

It has been suggested to me in the past that this would be a good place to buy a binding bit for a router: 

https://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Small_Series_212.html

The trouble is that it all looks a bit complicated to a newbie like me?? I basically want to add some 6 x 1.5 pearloid binding to a flat top body. Can anyone identify what cutter part no and bearing part no I would need for that specific job?




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  • RabsRabs Frets: 2620
    edited March 2017 tFB Trader

    Well im not actually an expert on this. I  have a bit but the one I bought had several bearings...

    So theres three things here... 

    Up shear and down shear..  I wasn't actually sure what this is but I just found this info

    The major differences between up and down shear bits are the chip evacuation rate and the finish quality.  Up shear bits are used for faster feed rates and deeper holes where chip evacuation is key (although multiple passes are still suggested for deep holes and mortising). The upward rotation prevents debris from littering the cut which reduces friction and edge wear. While this is great for chips it can create finish issues if used incorrectly as the upward rotation (which creates lift) will potentially fray fibers around edges.

    The down shear bit leaves a very crisp edge but is less effective with chip evacuation, which can lead to excessive friction and tool wear if not run correctly. Down shear bits are a good choice for cutting shallow grooves or dados with visible edges. One other note – down shear bits are generally run slower than up cut bits due to the chip evacuation speed. This is another reason for cutting shallow grooves in multiple passes vs going deep on one pass. The slower feed speed allows the bit more time to evacuate chips which will help avoid excessive tool stress or friction. The down shear carbide spiral bit is far more popular because many router tables have less than efficient, vacuum hold-down which makes the up-shear bit want to lift the panel with it’s upward cutting motion.  This results in unacceptable vibration and movement of the panel.

    Then theres the size of the shank "C" which will depend on which type of router you have. 1/4" is fairly usual but sometimes they are 1/2".

    Then theres the bearing size.. Which if you are fitting 1.5mm binding you will obviously need one that cuts a 1.5mm rebate.

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