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Life would be a lot easier with a power screwdriver but I don't have one - and I'm assuming you don't either - if you have, use it, if not, key thing is to check you have the right size screwdriver. A trick I use is to put on a rubber marigold glove on my screwing hand (no making up your own jokes, please - I know what you smutty lot are like! ) because this really helps you grip, and helps keep your hand from getting sore (don't go there...just DON'T !). The other thing you could do is spray a tiny bit of WD40 around the screw - a little will seep down and can ease things a bit.
Re solder, I'd suggest getting a paper clip, unravelling it and getting one end really hot eg from a candle flame or a gas flame on your cooker (if you have gas) - smaller surface area to heat and more control when contacting the solder.
Hope this helps.
My band, Red For Dissent
Assuming you've solved that problem yourself and still want to doit yourself, lie the cabinet down so the screws are pointing straight up, get the *correct* screwdriver which fits the screw properly, and push down hard while turning. Do not use the wrong driver or a power screwdriver unless you really have to, it's much easier to chew the heads up and then you're in real trouble. Make absolutely sure the screwdriver can't slip or you'll probably need another new speaker.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
I've also ordered a screwdriver set, as I needed one anyway.
Thanks
My band, Red For Dissent
Are you familiar with soldering? If not, some advice…
First, don't use lead-free solder - it's shit. You will not be able to make a decent joint with it, and even if you do it's hard to tell! Use only leaded solder, or added-silver lead-free. The added-silver is easy to buy - Maplins stock it if you only need a small quantity, or you can get in online. It is quite a bit more expensive, but worth every penny.
Second, always protect the speaker cone with a cloth or some kitchen roll under the terminals, arranged so that if a blob of solder does drip it will roll out of the speaker frame and not down into the gap around the inside of the rim, where it's difficult to get out. Balls of old solder in the edge of the speaker will rattle annoyingly and in the worst case can wear through the cone.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
My band, Red For Dissent
New speaker, soldering iron, etc. here. Removed the old speaker without too much fuss and proceeded to apply solder to the exposed cable/L clips. Connected to an amp I'm less worried about killing - and nothing.
Two things: is there a way to test it without risking an amp? Any suggestions on what I've possibly got wrong? I'd far rather they were slide on clips...
My band, Red For Dissent
The surface you're applying to needs to be hot, so the solder melts onto it properly.
My band, Red For Dissent
Getting the screws back in, mind...some definite angle changes but seems to be okay. Neo Creamback - sounds great!
My band, Red For Dissent
My band, Red For Dissent