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I want a band saw.
It needs to be big enough to re-saw my cedar planks, plank up the cherry tree that I'm about to cut down, and re-saw any other timber I acquire.
The usual advice is “buy well, buy once”, so I don't want to buy something which I then want to replace. I quite like this one
http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-trade-series-sbw4300b-bandsaw-501200
plus a decent saw blade. It would need a large dust extractor, ducting, and a 20A electrical supply. Hence I'm interested in advice from fellow workshop owners. @Sporky and @octatonic I'm looking at you.
The questions are:
1. How big a band saw do I really need to cut acoustic guitar panels, hollow body guitar tops, and a few other things which I haven't thought of yet?
2. What other bits will I need to go with it? Roller stands, fences, guides etc.
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Comments
It is excellent but you need to put in a 20A supply.
I would absolutely go for a Jet over an Axminster- much better made.
The only thing I would absolutely recommend to buy would be some roller casters.
I move my machines around all the time and it is too difficult if they aren't on wheels.
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Me too.. Id almost kill for one
But I have no money or space.. So a jigsaw it will have to be for the moment...
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That's the bandsaw I have, had it about eight years now, a great piece of kit. I've used it virtually every day since I purchased it. It's about the biggest and most powerful bandsaw you can buy that will run on normal domestic 13A supply. However, if you happen to have a 20A supply in your workshop, Axminster have some really good deals going on jet bandsaw at the present time.
If you're only making acoustic guitars, I'm not sure if need a bandsaw this big, unless you're cutting your own backs and sides from blocks of wood. I used a I small bandsaw for about 15 years before I purchased the larger machine, this was only purchased so I could cut blocks of flame maple and quilted maple for book matched pairs. Having said that this particular machine will last you a lifetime, the only parts I've had to replace or repair since I've had the machine are the rubbers on two wheels inside the machine, along with the guide bearings that the blade goes through. This was after about 7 years, they would have most likely lasted much longer if I turned the dust extractor on every time I use the machine, or cleaned the band saw out more often then I do.
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2. I bolt my bandsaw down, but if you're short on space then a wheeled base will help enormously. And hire an engine crane or similar to stand it up - they're delivered lying down and weigh rather a lot.
I think the bandsaw you've linked to is the newer-but-smaller version of the one I have, in which case it'll work on a good 13A supply as long as there's nothing else on that supply. My old chip extractor kept mine pretty clean, the new one keeps it spotless.
Other bits - well, the fence looks much improved, but I would suggest some of these so you can make sacrificial wooden fences (you can get the same thing cheaper elsewhere but the Axminster ones are a very jolly shade of orange):
http://www.axminster.co.uk/ujk-technology-universal-fence-clamps-pair-502711
Also some of these are useful - there are lots of variations but the featherboards are cheapest and very handy.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Magswitch-Table-Featherboard-Universal-Model/dp/B001DSZ7EC/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_tr_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=19J41XEF63YSQKH07ENY
Finally get some blades from Tuffsaws and use the right blade for the job - that'll make a huge difference.
Oh, actually, finally finally take a bit of time to set up the bandsaw properly. Opinions vary but I use this method and get decent results. It is a little sales-pitchy but also very useful on any bandsaw. There are more comprehensive methods, this gets you 90% of the way in 20% of the time.
@GSPBASSES It's nice to see a saw doing real work, rather than supplier's marketing. There's less dust than I get from a jig saw. Was your extractor running? I did worry about your thumbs as you came up to the end of the blocks.
@octatonic A wheeled base is on my list. It's a small shop, and I'll need to move the saw around to plank up trunks.
@Sporky I presume that you put 20A into your new shop. I need to get a 20A supply installed because, even if the band saw can just about run on 13A, I'm sure that band saw and dust extraction will overload the 1970s spur cable that supplies my workshop. Once the power is in place then I've no qualms about going for one of the larger Jet deals.
The supply to the workshop is 50A. Bandsaw is on a 16A circuit (though as mentioned will run on 13A), the dust extractor needs 16A at startup and I wanted spare capacity. The cable is a huge armoured jobby, surface laid - it must be 30mm diameter.
Some of the JETs look like a really good deal at the mo, but I'm perfectly happy with my Axminster - if I was going to upgrade it'd probably be to a Felder but I don't see much point.
The Record Power ones are worth a look too - very good rep and the wheel kits are brilliant.
http://www.recordpower.co.uk/product/premium-16-bandsaw#.WVZ0h4TyvAQ
My workshop is rated for a total of 32A due to a very long armoured cable run.
But I can have 2x16A machines and several 13A machines running at once no problem- I do it all the time and never had any issues.
It is unusual for a machine to be pulling down all the current it could all of the time.
The extractor supposedly pulls down 14A when it spins up and then it settles down to 10A or so.
Studio: https://www.voltperoctave.com
Music: https://www.euclideancircuits.com
Me: https://www.jamesrichmond.com
So I'm either going to have to get in there and try and fix it or shell out for a decent single phase saw. Bugger...
Give them a call- they have great staff who will be able to recommend the right thing to go with it.
Studio: https://www.voltperoctave.com
Music: https://www.euclideancircuits.com
Me: https://www.jamesrichmond.com
I suppose I could keep the VFD for a speed controllable buffing set up. Hopefully find time to whip the motor off today.
Did it, what a pain. Was connected to a plate with an almost inaccessible bolt.
The casing is held together with long thru bolts that have single fin heads where you'd expect to find hex heads. Might have to admit defeat.