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Offset "(Emp) - a little heavy on the hyperbole."
I think I agree. I would try putting my old ones back on, but I can't find them!!
I got the graphtecs because I thought it would help with tuning stability. No difference to be honest!
The pre-cut notch in the saddle almost certainly started out with a slight fall off angle on the bevelled side. With the saddle reversed for intonation reasons, you need to dress the string slot angle to match.
In the photograph, it appears that the high E string just touches the back edge of the bridge on its way to the tailpiece. Ideally, the string should just clear that edge. If the low E string also touched the edge of the bridge, the kinking and additional stress may have contributed to premature breakage.
On the low E, you've got the saddle in backwards, which I assume you know already. Looking at the positions of the A and D saddles I would be surprised if it's really necessary to reverse the E - just set it fully back with it the right way round.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
^^^^^^ from comment above with @Funkfingers - then just raise the tailpiece enough to minimise the break angle - only a tweak should be required
In that case you'll probably need to shape the back edge of the saddle groove so it's less of a sharp angle.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Doesn't that increase the tension behind the saddle or am I not understanding it correctly?
It became advised not to allow all the strings to press down hard on the back edge of the bridge when Gibson started making guitars with overly steep neck angles and poor quality bridges in the 1970s - if all the strings were touching it indicated a very steep break angle which could put a lot of pressure on the bridge and cause it to collapse. (I had a Les Paul Deluxe which did!)
But if you look at any tune-o-matic/string-through-body guitar, usually most or all the strings will be touching.
On a stoptail you can always lift the tailpiece to stop it, if you want - although for me personally, that spoils the tone on a Les Paul - I always prefer the stopbar tight down onto the body.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
I'm with icbm on the breakage: dress the slot and see if it helps.