It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!
Subscribe to our Patreon, and get image uploads with no ads on the site!
Base theme by DesignModo & ported to Powered by Vanilla by Chris Ireland, modified by the "theFB" team.
Comments
My band, Red For Dissent
Are you using a quality, correct size screwdriver as it is, cheap and worn tips will do damage and a new correctly sized blade will have better bite. The screwdriver that came with some flat pack furniture will do more damage than good.
It is possible to edge out a bolt or screw with great care and not a little time. put an old flatblade screwdriver on the side of the head angled in the anticlockwise (undo) direction and tap it. It is wise to mask off the area of the guitar first as slippage is almost certain. repeat this excercise a number of times and very very slowly the screw will reverse out. Once a part revolution has happened a normal screwdriver will probably work.
Grabbing the head with some quality pliers and twisting might also render success, but beware of snapping of the head completely, probably best left as a last resort.
On mechanical bolts that are seized, it is sometimes beneficial to hit the head with a hammer a couple of times to loosen the threads a bit, I'm not sure if that quite works with wood screws.
Ive got a screw broken off dead flush on a birds eye maple headstock, damned if i know how to shift it without ruining the headstock face.....
My band, Red For Dissent
You can even get out snapped-off screws where the shaft is buried in the wood like this if you're careful and use needle-nose pliers. Some damage to the wood is inevitable, but it will usually be hidden by whatever the screw attaches.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
you will need to drill the head off first if the screw is holding a part in place. That's relatively easy and in many cases it leaves enough shaft poking up to use pliers (I often use an old worn out set of fret cutters because they grip well and let you get close with minimal risk)
heat is good if you can get a grip on the screw. It's really good if you think the part has been glued (strap buttons, bridge bushings are the usual culprits)
i have never found the dremel method very successful, but it pays to have a few things you can try
Instagram
Cheers again.
My band, Red For Dissent