I'm gigging with a peavey classic 30 at the moment and we've got a couple of big Christmas gigs coming up so I feel like treating it to some new valves.
Its also running a bit noisy and I don't know when the valves were last changed so it seems like a good idea.
I don't really have a clue what do about getting new valves for it. I've seen that they sell valve sets but it feels like I would be buying cheap junk if I bought that.
I gather it's best to go for a matched quad of power valves (it currently has Mesa el34's) but I'm not sure of best brands or what sort of price I should be paying.
Also preamp valves?
Any advice please?
If you're selling anythin suitable then please message me.
Comments
ICBM and others will be along no doubt. Hang on! FOUR EL34s for 30 watts? Anyhoos.. the bottom line is...
If the amp is fixed biased you need a tech if cathode biased you don't. Personally I would not pay for 'so called matched sets' Instead I would just buy 4 valves from a good supplier (they ^ will tell you who) and, assuming YOU can fit them, swap them around for minimum hum.
Pre amp valves? You only need get one of each type and they are probably all ECC83/12AX7. KEEP the old ones!
Dave.
Aha! It uses EL EIGHTY FOURS ! So, likely cathode biased, everything else is the same.
Dave.
Haha I didn't even realise there was a difference! Shows exactly how much of a valve noob I am
Cheers.
Last time I checked a run of JJ EL84 I think 3 out of 10 ran really hot.
JJ for EL84s - the most robust current production.
I prefer Tung-Sol, EH, or TAD (or other generic Chinese are fine, in fact) 12AX7s - but it probably doesn't need all of them changing, I would probably get one and see if it makes any noticeable difference in any position.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
I would ALWAYS get matched valves.
Firstly it means you can bias them correctly.
Secondly they will have been tested, which weeds out defective valves.
Most vendours sells matched valves at no extra cost.
The Peavey Classic 30 is fixed bias, has no means of adjusting the bias, so ideally you would need a set that have lower current draw.
Check it in a darkened room! Thanks jpfamps, did not know that.
I agree with all, JJ EL84s are the way to go, even though with non-adjustable fixed bias, they get less of a hard time than cathode biased.
There is a JJ revalve kit on ebay:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Replacement-Valve-Kit-For-Peavey-Classic-30/332189115040?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
Any reason not to go with that?
I defer to those that have had good results with matched sets. I based my view on a small sample some years ago where I found there to be no better matching INSIDE a group than out of it.
Seems some thing do get better!
Dave.
This. When I had a C30, the valves would go start make a rattling sound. I used to have to replace them every year - sometimes more often.
My one also chewed up phase inverter valves (the 12AX7 nearest the power valves) with great regularity. Drive sounds would start to sound very nasty until I changed the valve. Normally that only lasted 6 months or so. I once got 10 months out of a new old stock Brimar, but that was when they could be had for reasonable prices. I don't know whether all C30s do that, or whether there was a fault with my amp.
I opened it up to do some basic diagnostics to see if I could find an obvious reason for the phase inverter valves being chewed valve and discovered the abomination that is the 3 sided circuit board. At that point I decided it was simpler to sell the amp.
Personally, I'd sell the C30 and buy a Fender Hot Rod Deluxe. Only 2 power valves instead of 4, and they will probably last 5 times as long. It's also much better built.
How do they compare soundwise? I've never played one.
What I would say is the that HRD needs a speaker swap to get the best out of it, although that's true for a lot of modern Fender amps. I put a Weber 12F150 in mine and it sounded really good. I played a limited edition version in a shop with an Alnico Jensen that sounded really good as well.
The fact that the valves weren't matched not a argument for not using matched valves.