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Thanks. The thing is, I have a weird tank where the HW and CH are together, so even when the CH is off, I assume it must still be drawing *some* heat. I have a copper tank which is not done any more, but apparently a stainless steel tank is an option..
That is a really good point. I have a dormer on the south facing roof so that is unlikely in the short term, but possible when solar panels are smaller/lighter I guess.
I have to move a *long* way from work to get it though!
Remember, it's easier to criticise than create!
Remember, it's easier to criticise than create!
Oh, and if you fit one, you lose the airing cupboard, which would be grounds for a kick in the bollocks, followed by a divorce, in my gaff.
No reason why you can't replace with standard boiler and update the tank and heating controls at the same time. Stainless Steel tanks are available but more expensive.
this is in a 3 bedroom 1 bathroom house with two of us.
Cost us 2300 including rerouting gas through a bigger pipe and a new radiator.
https://1drv.ms/i/s!An1C7f0Qk0d1jpNv_foNlp_QqL_D8g
http://www.directheatingsupplies.co.uk/ideal-logic-plus-35-combi-boiler
Or a 33kw Worcester. The Ideal Logic comes with a 7 year guarantee compared with an "up to" five years with the Worcester, is 35kw, and cheaper.
The engineer has bene putting the Ideal Logic Plus in for several years and has one himself, so is fairly confident with them.
Ideal were really solid boilers in the 60s, 70s when basic technology was the order of the day. In my view they struggled in the same way as Potterton did to move with the times (Modulation and reliable Condensing Boilers).
Depending on how many people live in your house / use HW regularly (showers and baths) you might find that the Ideal boiler listed is not powerful enough for HW, look at the flow rate at 35 Degree temp difference - 14 litres per minute. Fine in summer but in Winter, the incoming mains is often less than 10 degrees so the flow rate has to reduce to meet the required output temp.
For a 5 bed house I’d say that you’re looking at something like the Worcester Greenstar 38CDi Classic which delivers HW at 14 Litres / Min with a 40 Degree temp difference.
If you've an efficient boiler then a good sized hot water tank works very well and doesn't cost a fortune to run. I'd put in a solar hot water system before I changed to a combi (that way you have hot water through the winter when the heat is on anyway, and in the summer without using the immersion).
Its not not something that you want to think about paying for at this time of year but at least consider replacing your current system completely. If you do this, you can replace your current rads with larger / more powerful radiators. The reason for doing this is that condensing boilers only run in condensing mode when the flow temperature from the boiler is at 56 degrees (approx) or lower and with the system setup for return temperatures 20 degrees lower. Older systems in the UK were often designed with flow temperatures of 80 degrees and a return of 70. The impact is that to get best system efficiency with old rads....your house will invariably be not warm enough....or your boiler won’t be running in condensing mode.
From a personal point of view, I tend to have my heating set for 20 degrees. Is that likely to help the boiler operate in condensing mode? Can I typically enable/disable condensing mode, or is this something that should be automatic?