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1) the end-to-end lengths of both pickup cavities.
2) the distance between the height adjustment screws along one side of each pickup.
3) the D.C. resistance of each pickup.
On expensive bass guitars, these three measurements should be different per pickup. On some budget basses, they may be the same.
There are numerous possible explanations for a non-functioning pickup. Several of these are due to other components. Hence, the place to beginning looking is the control cavity. You may find dry solder joints, broken off wires that no longer connect to anything and gunged up pots that fail to pass any signal.
If everything seems good in the control cavity, check the pickup itself.
The output conductors for the bridge position pickup pass to the control cavity via a drilled hole in the body *wood*. It will be necessary to slacken off the strings before raising the bridge pickup out of its cavity. With the pickup gently removed, examine its underside where the output conductors are soldered. Once again, dry solder joints or broken connections could be the cause of the problem.
Hopefully, some minor running repairs will see the Grant bass right. Its plywood body and dogbreath tuners limit the improvement that can be achieved by spending very much money.
Uh oh - are they not very good?
R.
Eqd Speaker Cranker clone
Monte Allums TR-2 Plus mod kit
Trading feedback: http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/60602/
As Funkfingers said, the machineheads are probably the priority after finding out what’s wrong with the electrics - they’re usually very poor.
It may be a dead pickup, but it’s just as likely to be the volume pot for it. If you like the bass and want to keep it and actually use it ‘properly’, I would simply replace all the electrics - all the pots, jack and the wiring, it’s all pretty crap. If the pickup is dead, ask Ash at Oil City about a rewind - probably cheaper than a new pickup, and sometimes the dimensions of these cheap ones are a bit off so a standard Jazz one may not fit.
All this assumes the neck is straight and the fretting is OK, so check that first!
I like these old things and I’ve restored quite a few to good, playable condition - but be aware that a few do have serious issues.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
It needs new strings - I know nothing about bass strings. What are a good set to go for?
R.
Eqd Speaker Cranker clone
Monte Allums TR-2 Plus mod kit
Trading feedback: http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/60602/
Whenever the string tension seems to be more than a bass guitar neck can take without bowing forwards, I choose 040-095 gauge strings.
The other question is, what sort of tones do you require? Bright and snappy or deep and plummy? In other words, roundwound or flatwound?
Regarding the pickup, you can unsolder it from the pots and use a multimeter to see if it's got a resistance (should be 4-10k).
If the pickup is pooped, you could have it re-wired; I've used Alegree.
As for upgrading, etc., I'd think twice about it - part of the fun is keeping these old clunkers original.
Formerly TheGuitarWeasel ... Oil City Pickups ... Oil City Blog 7 String.org profile and message
And can you make them sound better (whatever "better" is - I've still not even plugged the thing in!)
R.
Eqd Speaker Cranker clone
Monte Allums TR-2 Plus mod kit
Trading feedback: http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/60602/
R.
Eqd Speaker Cranker clone
Monte Allums TR-2 Plus mod kit
Trading feedback: http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/60602/
I shall do so now.
R.
Eqd Speaker Cranker clone
Monte Allums TR-2 Plus mod kit
Trading feedback: http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/60602/
I removed the strings and disassembled everything and it turns out the bridge pickup wasn't connected, but was open-circuit when I measured it. I pulled it apart and found that the red wire had come off so I re-soldered it back on. It now measures 4.9K (neck pickup measures 4.7K).
It's got a replacement pickguard with holes in a different place to the original, and someone has just screwed the thumb rest on top of the pickguard, with the screws going through right next to a pickguard screw. I might try moving that to a more sensible position.
The under-pickup foam has perished so I'll find something suitable to replace it (I think I have some neoprene from inside an MoD ammunition case that should do the job).
I decided not to bother with new strings just yet, and scrounged an old set from my bass player (he changes strings fairly regularly).
Looking forward to seeing how it sounds when I put it back together.
R.
Eqd Speaker Cranker clone
Monte Allums TR-2 Plus mod kit
Trading feedback: http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/60602/
I've used the foam from a sanding pad under a pickup, before.
I've used the foam from a sanding pad under a pickup before; it seemed to have about the right consistency.
Swing Bass feel rough, start off sounding bright and gritty but die and then sound dull within a matter of weeks. Rotobass feel great and sound great out of the packet, and I've had a set on my bass for almost four years - and they still sound fine. I was going to get a set of DRs for it but have never felt the need to get around to it.
Swing Bass are also notorious for chewing up softer frets.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein