As thread title. For some reason the reverb has decided to stop working.
All the valves light up.
Twiddled the reverb knob.
The foot switch soldering looks okay. And is connected properly because the tremolo switches on/off.
Tremolo works fine.
Thought it might have been the leads (as I had removed the reverb tank to fit new baffle) so checked those. Even swapped them around, just to make sure. No effect.
Removed and checked the tank, which looks fine, but can't test it in another amp.
The amp occasionally pops and fizzes for a few moments before settling down.
Am now at a loss ... can someone help?
Comments
Does the amp 'CLANG' when you kick it?
Dave.
If it is, replace the tank with a TAD/Ruby one, they don't have the design fault which causes this.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Having replaced one out of necessity, I'd now do it as a matter of routine because it's a great cheap upgrade anyway.
Duh! Too slow (again).
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
The tank is a stock Ruby a RRVL 2AB1C1BV3. Are they any good? Is this type prone to the problems you mention?
Sockets okay.
No spare leads, but tested continuity of existing leads, and they’re okay.
Innards inspected. And inspected again. Nothing looks loose to me.
V2 & V3... alas, I have no spare valves.
Does the reverb crash if you shake the tank with the reverb level turned up on the amp? If no, swap the cables at the tank and try again. That will tell you if the problem is in the tank, since both ends won't have failed.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
I had exactly the same issue with my PRRI, it turned out to be one of the valves. I cant remember exactly which one as I believe the reverb has a send and return spread over two valves. I'm pretty sure it was either v2 or v3 though.
The leads are fine. I tested those, and continuity is assured.
Readings are:
Out = 224 Ohms
In = 1.5 Ohms
What's good? What to avoid?
NOS Philips is the best easily available 12AT7, and not too expensive. Any good 12AX7 will be fine, there aren’t any special conditions for this position.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein