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https://www.dropbox.com/s/mti6judeio29zy2/IMG_0705.jpg?raw=1
After some encouragement with a Dremel the fit was perfect and I completed the build.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bagid4t8jmkhai8/IMG_0711.jpg?raw=1
There is a lot to be done before I actually make use of this, but I wanted to check the electrics as I had bought the 110V US version by mistake, and had to use a transformer.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1mregzxojk5v9q8/IMG_0712.jpg?raw=1
Lots of lights - good. Now it's time to revisit the first few lessons in the Bailey online acoustic guitar build course...
https://www.dropbox.com/s/jixtuvodu9vbsvg/IMG_0717.jpg?raw=1
Still need to check all measurements with Bailey plan and the Bogdanovich book.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gh7263dyqp6f2md/IMG_0718.jpg?raw=1
The back and sides are well finished, but around 5mm and 4.2mm thick. I think the sides (un-laminated) are ok, but the back should be closer to 4mm. The top is 5.5mm thick, and a very rough finish. I think this should be reduced by half (or slightly more).
Is reducing the thickness with an orbital sander - then finishing with sanding blocks and finer paper - a reasonable way to go?
It’s not unusual for woods to come oversize unless specified otherwise. It’s better if storing the wood for some time. The sides need to be thinner if you want them to bend easily.
Instagram
https://www.dropbox.com/s/i6cw5z3t2jf4x18/IMG_0749.jpg?raw=1
I had to adjust the end of the clamp with a Dremel to be able to remove the existing clamp and add the wooden jaws.
Before:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/wdrr4i240s7ox9r/IMG_0752.jpg?raw=1
After:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/pizvb7ca5u07v6s/IMG_0753.jpg?raw=1
The end result:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/wf9tlvt5akh8khs/IMG_0754.jpg?raw=1
I'll make another this size then two with longer reach - to go with two small ones I already have. That should be sufficient for clamping the braces.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/zf8207r6utm9ba9/IMG_0758.jpg?raw=1
Back braces have been added to the plan. I'll do a separate sheet for the top braces.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/9x1rdftw4oi0ope/IMG_0759.jpg?raw=1
https://www.dropbox.com/s/l56elsglhmkaytj/IMG_0762.jpg?raw=1
Once top (and back) are joined and reduced to thickness I'll radius the braces and glue them to the back/top.
What have I missed?
What thicknesses will you be aiming for?
I was aiming at 2.5 mm, but on another thread I read "I will not, however, drop below 2.7mm", so perhaps 2.7 mm is a sensible target?
The sides will need to be thinner to have any chance of bending them - for walnut / mahogany / lacewood, etc, I personally aim for around 1.9mm (or sometimes even thinner). I generally do the back to the same thickness as the sides.
For a spruce top, a nominal 'thickest' starting point is, for me, around 3mm which I then slim down until I get a decent ringing drum tone, which is usually at about 2.7mm. For a standard sized steel string, I would personally feel uncomfortable at much less than 2.5mm ref the strength issue.
Nylon strung classical guitar tops seem to be usually thinner, at closer to 2mm.
It's worth Googling and having a look at what thickness people generally work to. It's quite an important area to try to get right because it affects workability, strength and tone, all at the same time.
Andy
I’ve been too busy actually playing guitar for the last few weeks to make any progress with this build - 3 gigs in a couple of weeks compared with 3 gigs in the previous 6 months. If I don’t get going soon I won’t be finished before winter arrives and my workshop becomes too cold for fingers or liquids. The wood for my top was rough around the edges, which hadn’t concerned me until I started thinking about joining the top pieces.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/z8a9lyx3t7eao53/IMG_1474.jpg?raw=1
So I trimmed some straight edges that could be used to wedge the pieces in place.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/58lx5kuqq430cy7/IMG_1479.jpg?raw=1
Having positioned one piece I routed a channel for glue drips to stop the top being glued to the joining board.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7db6j4n8yfed5vr/IMG_1482.jpg?raw=1
I then worked on the two edges using a straight edge block with 320 grit sandpaper – working one piece upside down so if the sandpaper wasn’t at exactly 90 degrees the pieces would still join flat. The left hand piece was clamped in position, I applied glue to the right hand piece, positioned it firmly with the wedges checking that there was no step between the two pieces, and clamped that in place.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/80zqewxicov37ql/IMG_1483.jpg?raw=1