I decided to give the frets in my old squier strat a level as I had some choking issues on the high e. I adjusted the truss rod to flatten it as best I could, then leveled with a 20cm diamond coated plate. The middle frets were heavily worn whilst those at both ends had little wear. My leveling attempt has solved the choking issues. However it is clear that the middle frets are now effectivity lowered compared to the end ones as they have what flat areas. Is that an issue? Once I crown them it will no longer be visually obvious. Does anyone attempt to make all closer to the same height of is being close relative to their neighbours sufficient.
Comments
Also, the neck needs to be properly flat/level prior to carrying out the levelling.
So I think I have effectivity left a arc with a huge radius, because the middle fret are now some fraction of a mm lower than the top and lowest. How would I ever notice the difference between straight and this tiny curve, which I think is equivalent to some minute degree less relief via the truss rod. If I'd left the middle higher obviously that would present a different issue.
You should always flatten frets with a straight neck imo, then you can adjust relief and action to taste and don't forget to check nut height after relief is set
(formerly customkits)
Youll need
Notched straight edge
levelling beam
fret rock
crowing file
double sided tape
sharpie
You could also get a bevelling file for the fret ends if you wanted. Make sure the neck is straight before starting.
• Youtube - https://www.youtube.com/@Goldeneraguitars
I used strings as the straight edge. Diamond sharpening stone to level. I'll be using a triangular file to crown the frets once my fingerboard guard arrives.
1. At it's most basic - 'if it ain't broke, then don't fix it'
If your fix above has sorted the original problem and no unwanted side effects have been encountered, then you are done. So basically, if it plays without buzzing or choking at a reasonable action height, then that's mission accomplished. You can optionally crown the flattened tops to marginally improve the fretted note accuracy (though you may not be able to hear much difference) but, if you do, then be careful not to change any of the fret heights by accident. Instead, just round the tops up to their present height.
2. More precise fret levelling on a budget.
First of all, don't confuse fret levelling with neck relief - neck relief is not there to compensate for uneven frets. Fret levelling is also quite a complex topic and there's loads of decent tutorials and explanations on the net but, armed with a diamond file sharpening stone and just a few cheap but essential tools you can tackle the most common two scenarios:
Scenario 1 - two or three frets are HIGH.
In brief, you can identify them using a simple 'rocker' - an old credit card can be cut and works perfectly well - that straddles three frets at a time. If it rocks, the middle fret is high in that spot. Then you can check if the fret is raised out of its slot (hammer or clamp back) or if it needs filing down. For this - yes...you could use your diamond plate
The danger, though, if you don't really know what you're doing, is that filing this one down, might makes the next one rock, and so on until you realise that all the frets are being filed and in an uncontrolled way. Key Tip - rock every triplet all the way up the fretboard and at each string position, making a note off all those positions that rock BEFORE you file anything! Because you might have Scenario 2...
Scenario 2 - two or three frets are LOW, or, your rocker is telling you that the heights are all over the place
Here, you will need to level the whole fretboard - that is make sure that all of the fret tops are in line with each other over the full length of the fretboard and all positions across the full width of the board. Here you definitely need at least a straight edge of some sort (a long steel rule or a machined beam) and a levelling sanding beam of some sort. A lot of people I know buy a cheap metal builders spirit level beam and glue some emery cloth to the bottom and use it for both. I bought a 1m length of aluminium box section off ebay for a few £'s, glued the emery to one side and use the other as my straight edge.
And here, the sequence is important to prevent unnecessary removal of fret material - get the neck straight as possible; then level all of the frets with the sanding beam; then crown the flat tops; then polish out the scratches; and only then, set your neck relief.
It's a big subject. There's LOTS of info around. But hope the above puts a perspective to your original question.
It never occurred to me to use a sharpening stone to level, I always used an old spirit level (which is surprisingly true against a known straight-edge I have) and stuck sandpaper to it.
I have some nice Japanese sharpening stones of varying grits given to me as a gift, will investigate.
Thanks for all your replies, particularly @Andyjr1515 ;;
I also used a 4000 grit Japanese waterstone after the diamond plate. I used it dry in case the mud would be difficult to get off the fretboard.