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It’s bigger, and some control cavities aren’t deep or wide enough. If fact some bodies aren’t deep enough. I bend the tags flat after soldering up, and put a strip of tape along the bottom and side of the cavity to prevent short circuits at some later date.
The blade moves a bit further, so you may need to lengthen the slot in the control plate and/or replace dome headed machine screws with flatter ones.
The man to give you chapter and verse on this is @ICBM
Standard switch IMHO is the one to go for, as I inderstand it the superswitch allows more options, but would be a waste of money for standard wiring...
The same problem occurs with Tele 4-way switches. So if you only want the traditional switching options or any other that can be done with the traditional switch, you’re better to use one.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
While I have this thread, I'd be grateful if someone could check out the wiring diagram I've designed. I am more confident in my schematic designing these days but certainly can't hurt to have expert eyes spot any issued I've missed before taking the time to wire it all up.
Bridge pickup is the @OilCityPickups Diamond Geezer with a coil tap.
Aiming for the following:
S1 switch up:
1 - Hot bridge
2 - Tapped bridge & middle
3 - middle
4 - neck & middle
5 - neck
S1 switch down:
1 - Tapped bridge
2 - Hot bridge & middle
3 - middle
4 - middle & neck
5 - Tapped bridge & neck
Cheers!
You also have the tone controls marked as Lin - you need Log.
I think the S1 switching is right, but it’s better to switch a tap by shorting the tap to the hot rather than selecting between them, which leaves the hot connection floating as an aerial in the tap mode.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
The Lin thing seems to just be added by default by the software, wasn't paying any attention to it, I'll be using the existing pots which are the correct type.
The last thing you say is something I'll need to sit and work out. At the moment, position 1 of the 5-way is the hot and position 4 is the tapped (& middle) then the S1 switch reverses those; would it still be possible to have that using the shorting method? Would it possibly involve some more complex interraction between the Superswitch and the S1?
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Appreciate the help my man.
Would be extremely grateful if one of the senseis/gurus could have a quick look at this to see if there are any obvious mistakes before I wire it up and have to take it apart again:
The idea is to have a fairly standard switching setup with the bridge being full in position one and tapped when combined with middle in position two but when the S1 switch is pressed, those are reversed.
Also when the blender is turned when in position one, the neck will be blended in with either the full or tapped bridge, depending on the S1 switch; I think in position five the blender would always blend in the full bridge pickup, which is fine.
Thanks in advance if any of you can be bothered having a quick look