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Basically there's 3 components that fail battery wise ... the alternator, the rectifier \ regulator and the battery. When the engines running there should be around 14V on the battery terminals ... if you got that then the first 2 are fine .
If that car starts and then cuts out it could be anything ... insulation breaking down on HT .. fuel solenoid etc
Take the battery off the car and give it a full charge then see how you get on.
But it could also be something else - a bad connection between the battery and the starter motor which is introducing high resistance - the most likely place is the bolt that connects the negative lead to the chassis, either of the battery or the motor. These can rust and do exactly what you're describing, my old Renault had precisely that problem once.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
no response from the engine at all but all the electronics light up as normal. Don’t know
If that helps clarify anything?
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Electronics don’t turn off however –i’ve just discovered Skoda Fabio is notorious for immobiliser issues. Their description was exactly as I described – car starts turns over for 2 seconds and it cuts out. Obviously now this has changed and the car Engine won’t turn over at all now, however I I wonder if this could be linked? Appreciate all the help though!
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
mmmm with immobilizers it can be anything from the key \ fob it's self to the receiver electronics which is in the dash normally or top of the screen somewhere. I used to get work from a garage resoldering boards and changing relays from Seat's to cure immobiliser faults. Not familiar with any Skoda ones though
Check battery in fob, try reprogramming sequence, check all push in connections on relays, fuses etc in electronics \ fuse box. Make sure connector on ECU is not corroded and on tight.
I had a Jag that sometimes just wouldn't start and in the end I traced it to a bad joint on the bottom of the fusebox where a relay plugged in. Used to drive me mad
if you have done either and it starts but doesn’t hold the charge then it could be the battery or alternator, if you have a meter check the alternator voltage - or pop it into a garage for a quick check.
On topic, @randerson do you have access to a multimeter? A good battery will hold a 12.4v charge or higher and charge at 14+ v from the alternator when running.
As said, the starter demands the most power when initiated and a weak battery will cause problems.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
If that doesn't happen when the key is turned to start position then no current is being sent to starter motor in which case your be investigating main cable to started, earth strap and immobilizer
You can very often short the main cable from the battery on the solenoid across to the starting motors +V terminal if you want to test the battery and starting motor independently of the immobiliser . Can be very hard to reach on some cars though
Chances are its just the battery. If you have a multi meter check the voltage, it should be about 12.4v - Much less than that means its probably knackered. Anything under 12 and it definitely is.
As ICBM says, its got enough to power the dash up, central locking etc, but the big load required to turn the starter over is too much for it.
Who has told you the battery needs replacing? What i would do is jump start it from another car and then check the voltage with the engine running to check the charging system, needs to be between 13.6v to 14.6v-ish.