It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!
Subscribe to our Patreon, and get image uploads with no ads on the site!
Base theme by DesignModo & ported to Powered by Vanilla by Chris Ireland, modified by the "theFB" team.
Comments
I have red and black from bridge.
White and black from neck.
White red and black from tone.
The tone ones I'm okay with, ish, red and white to input jack, black soldered onto tail piece? That confuses me a little.
The red and white from the pups should soldered to the tone switch casing apparently, and the blacks to the respective little holes, bridging the two outer holes.
A little reassurance would be great. The wiring diagram is useless, it has one red wire from each pup., that's it.
You can also cut it off altogether if you want as the bridge is already grounded through the pickup baseplate and screws. I did that for the test fit without any noise issues
Instagram
Instagram
Hand finishing is another thing that probably improves with practice, having a bit of a sanding nightmare at the minute myself.
Instagram
This is my fairly amateur view, so take WezV's advice over mine, but you want fairly level action down the neck, though can afford a little higher further up towards the higher numbered frets. That means nut the right height (since you need unacceptably big amounts of tilt or bow to change the action at frets 1-3), neck fairly straight or slightly bowed and bridge saddles at the right height.
However there's only a certain amount of adjustment you can make at the saddles. If you think of the neck as a straight line then the height of the saddles, as far as string action goes, is the height above or below that line, not the actual body of the guitar. So if the bridge saddles have to sit really high or low (or can't even get high or low enough), then you can change that line by shimming a little to tilt the neck, and a really small change in height at the bottom or top of the pocket will change the height of the line above the bridge a lot.
And yes, the lower half to lift the bridge up. When I've done it I've taken a strip of card and put holes in it to put the neck screws through, which stops it shifting while you tighten it (and hopefully also gets the best possible compression on the shim itself). Think the advice is to use a fairly thin strip and you don't need thick card.
Instagram
Instagram