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Bottom bit may have been good !
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Now, conventional Tele shape or headless? I’m leaning towards headless, but I’m going to leave the final decision until I can see what the wood looks like.
Next step is to cut the Yew for body cap. Then get it all planed. Finishing by 1st April is achievable if I don’t spend too much time gardening.
1. White stain from Chestnut stains.
2. Rubio Monocoat Natural.
3. Rubio Monocoat Pure.
and electric blue wood dye.
I’m wondering about a white stained neck and blue body.
That's a pretty blue, but I reckon multiple applications of the white might make for a really interesting looking for guitar.
You can’t see it, but I’ve also cut a triangular slice from the front face so that the guitar will be thinner at the top, and thicker at the bottom.
The first thing I’d say is that I wouldn’t use it for cutting mitres. The wood guide had to be shimmed to get the cutting line square to the neck centre line.
The fret positions were marked with a craft knife and set square, using a table of measurements from Melvyn Hiscock’s book. I was hoping to cut the slots with one of my Japanese saws. Their blades are plenty thin enough, but the kerfs are too wide. So pictured is a proper fret slot saw with the depth guide removed. The slots were then deepened without the jig, and with the guide on.
Lastly the glue up:
This is the fretboard radiusing jig that I made years ago. With care it does a good job, especially if you run a test piece first. There are better designs on the internet, but at one or two guitars per year it would take me a long time to recoup the time and money needed to make one.
The table saw saved work in cutting the neck to depth. My favourite neck is 21mm deep at the first fret, increasing to 22mm at the 12th fret. I actually scraped it fully strung, checking the feel between strokes of the cabinet scraper. This one is 22mm, rising to 23mm. It was tapered to width using a router.
The Sycamore has worked well. The Field Maple less so. It was only used because it came from my own garden.