PC Components:
MB: MSI X570 Gaming Edge Wifi
CPU: Ryzen 7 3700x / AMD cooler
GPU: MSI RTX 2060
RAM: Corsair Vengeance DDR4 3600mhz
SSD: Samsung EVO 500GB
PSU: Corsair 650w Gold
***
So, I've just built my first gaming PC and it's not worked out in the way I hoped. Before I head to my local PC repair shop, I'd be grateful if any experienced forum members might be able to help or provide some pointers.
First problem – No signal to monitor
I managed to fit everything together and it powered up just fine. All fans for all components were active. RGB cooler and RAM showed their colours. However, I thought the fans were a bit noisy and later realised the motherboard power cable wasn't seated properly. Resolving this made the fans much quieter after a few seconds of turning the PC on.
However, my main issue was no signal to the monitor, and I couldn't get to the BIOS screen no matter how hard I tried. The HDMI cable was connected to the GPU, not the MB, and I tried different cables. No joy. I ensured the monitor was working with a different device (Nintendo Switch). I then tried reseating all the parts. I reset the BIOS by removing the battery and updated it via the flashback button on the motherboard.
Second problem – Ezbug
This has led to the PC turning on with the fans running loud again, and, as far as I can tell, the Ezbug stuck on CPU – it's constant, not flashing. Prior to this I remember them going through a sequence, but I'm not sure what. Also, when I turn the PC off, the RGB lights of the RAM modules go off a few seconds later; before, everything went off at once. Also, after it shuts down, it boots up on its own accord after few seconds.
***
That's it. It's gone from bad to worse and I'm stumped. I'm gutted too, especially as I'm worried that I've knackered some/all parts beyond repair.
At this point, any help would be genuinely appreciated
Comments
As for "when am I ready?" You'll never be ready. It works in reverse, you become ready by doing it. - pmbomb
Problem 2: not sure but get in the bios first would help. Did you thermal paste the processor before putting on the fan? If noyt that might explain a few things of ezbug and recycling power.
E2A dont think you have damaged anything, remember doing v similar on my first PC build.
As others have said plug into mother board HDMI.
Try only one stick of ram(in correct slot)
Try the other.
Is it POSTing? do you get Number lock/Caps lock flash on when you switch on?
Check all wire are seated correctly (disconnect and reseat to be sure)
This will also likely help: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xLKPS7EOezOJ3UHJyv_wLU-sMCPiKlb9/view
Failing that, Google has a fair few hits on the subject: http://tinyurl.com/3h499w69
Offset "(Emp) - a little heavy on the hyperbole."
Other than check the CPU, I've tried everything suggested so far but still no joy.
I don't think it's getting past POST as nothing happens with the num lock. No flashing, nothing. The mouse doesn't turn on either. Also, as @jasonbone75 said, I can't connect to motherboard due to the CPU's limitations unfortunately.
I will check the CPU tomorrow for bent pins etc as I've ran out of thermal paste. Fingers crossed I can resolve this without taking it in for repair . . .
My main question is...how long did you wait? Ryzen machines can take ages on first boot, because it's RAM training. It's also not unheard of for a tiny misalignment of a pin or two on the CPU to prevent boot or cause RAM problems.
My suggestion would be...remove the CPU, examine it for bent pins (any pins at all that look out of the ordinary), then - if all's good - re-seat it and go through the whole process again. You may need to wait up to five minutes for it all to come alive, and it may reboot a couple of times before it comes up.
Don't worry if the fans come up at full speed, if it boots - you can edit the fan curves in the UEFI/BIOS screens.
I’ve reseated the CPU – there didn’t appear to be any bent pins though I could be wrong
I let it run idle for several minutes but nothing changed.
I also tried interchanging a single RAM in the correct slot, but that didn’t change anything either.
At this point I’m out of ideas. The USB Flash seemed to sort of work but not. Is there a particular version that may benefit me more, or am I better off just taking it to the shop at this stage?
EDIT: Would this be worth trying?
https://thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/261331/fs-6-amd-ryzen-5-2600x-3-6ghz-am4-6-core-cpu-with-wraith-spire-cooler#latest
Have you tried a CMOS reset (see motherboard manual).
Is it a modular power supply are all the connectors seater properly especially the 24pin and the 8pin PCI power cables )both ends)
However, the fact that the EZ Debug CPU light was on indicates that the CPU is either not detected or it's failed; everything prior to the BIOS flash points towards the CPU being the culprit, but unless you can successfully flash a BIOS on there you're not going to know whether any further issues are the motherboard or not.
I took everything apart and reseated it all. That's including cables to and from the motherboard and PSU – all connected securely.
I replaced the CMOS battery with a new one and waited five minutes before doing so.
I doubled checked the DRAM are in the correct slots. They are.
I downloaded the 7C37v11 BIOS and update it via the Flash button. It did it's thing and still booted up with the CPU LED.
***
I don't think there's any more I can do now other than take it to the shop. Obtaining other parts to try and isolate the problem will cost me money without any guarantee I'll even get it to work – I'm just going to chalk it up as "one of those things".
Thanks again for everyone's input, it's much appreciated. I'll let you know if and when I'm finally playing COD
Before taking it to the shop on Monday, I could try some new RAM from Amazon. There's a Crucial DDR4 2666 MHz 4GB for £10.97. Would that be sufficient to test?
If you haven't got a caps lock light then pull all the ram out and see if you get beep code or light code for no ram
Has the PSU got enough juice on the 12V rail for the video card. You can have a 1000W power supply but that's no good if that's 800W of 5V and only 200 of 12V
Are the standoffs under the board in the right place or are some fouling the underside of the board and shorting it ? There should only be a metal standoff where there is a hole in the motherboard.