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so if you fancy a reissue of a guitar they never made in a colour they never used then it probably isn't too overpriced.
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I’ve found their stains a *lot* easier to apply than the Wudtone stuff.
https://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/178063/opaque-non-spray-finish#latest
https://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/177952/what-is-a-simple-paint-job-finish-to-do/p1
https://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/76402/wudtone-black-magic-woman-finish-any-experience/p1
http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/89942/caspercaster#latest
i worked out pretty early on that it was Osmo from a wooden floor finish a good few years earlier I was involved with. Buying the basic ingredient and then colouring it yourself overcomes the sometimes tight measures when it’s rebranded and decanted as Wudtone plus you can control and mix your own colours.
if you are looking for a solid finish in blue you will need a base coat first that will cover the grain and allow your final colour coat to build out. So for most cases a hefty dollop of white oil paint pigment will do think Windsor & Newton or other oil colours just decant 50ml of polyox add white oil paint stir until you have the coverage you need.
For the blue I mixed my own or an approximation of blue and the white oil paint till I got reasonably close to a fender style colour.
i started also working it with an aged top coat which has the same effect as ageing lacquer turning the blue to greenish.
its easy to do and yes won’t look like proper nitro but once it’s finally hardened you can do some light reliving for wear using a light touch and wire wool you can rub away a little of the top coat to show base coat in areas of wear on edges etc.
i did way more experiments with Osmo and having a bit more to work with makes coverage much less of an issue. You still have to build the coats but it’s 10-20mins for a few nights if that, once you have the technique.
if you let it dry really hard you can hand buff it out to a bit more of a gloss with scratch X paste you use to de swirl cars or something similar.
i will dig out a picture
Bandcamp
As said the early coats you do sort of dab onto the wood but once you have some coats down you can start to wipe on the colour and get a smoother finish also if you let it fully harden you can burnish it or use micro abrasion paste to buff it out I would suggest by hand not tried a machine and think that might be too much.
The Blue is starting to get an aged top coat but it was the first solid colour I tried and it was a cheap poplar body and as you can see it needed far more of the white base coat to knock out the grain patterns. The red was a solid white base coat and then I think a cardinal red pigment from memory.
So it is doable even if these are a bit knock about with application you can get pretty good results.
I find it also a little ironic that what was a cheap diy hobbyist finish using a floor finishing product is now being touted on some luthiery builders sites as Osmo hand finished on 8-10k fine built guitars strange world.
Interestingly the object of my current GAS features an OSMO finish
Previously you said that for an aged top coat you mixed about 25% of oil based varnish into the Osmo PolyX. Do you have any tips on what varnish to use - I really don't really know which products are oil based? Are these also floor varnishes? Or something used elsewhere?
http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/89942/caspercaster#latest
These were the test versions really, and are a bit raggety but were a proof of concept back in 2013 I think where does the time go.
At the time it was increasingly hard to find oil-based varnish as I think that's when the solvent directives had come in so a whole tranch of products got reformulated around this era. I think at the time I either found a can in B&Q or bought from wood finish online place. Although it was not coloured because it was oil-based it pretty much looked like an aged top coat. You could simply use a bit of yellow and orange or brown spirit-based dyes to tint the topcoat if required or pine or oak yacht varnish will mix as long as its oil-based and to a degree its a case of looking through ingredients or product details as I looked through and could not see a label I particularly remember buying back then. But any non-waterbased should mix with Osmo.
ISTR the Osmo with varnish in was to use on necks, where you wanted a more slick finish. Personally I prefer just to use coloron furniture oil and wax for necks.
ask if there is anything else I need to remember
I ditched using it not because of the quality you could get only people asked me back then to do Nitro finishes such is my friend's preoccupation with all things being on a Strat as they used to be LOL.
Yes, that is green. The one on the far right is also supposed to be navy blue. It is, as you can see, also green. A darker green, but nonetheless green.
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Yesterday, though, I started stripping the body of an old partscaster I’d put together a few years ago. It was chipping off, anyway.. I might go down the Crimson route on that one!
Thanks to everyone for their input. It’s very much appreciated!
With refins - and any stain/oil type finishes - its essential that you remove absolutely *all* of the old finish, which sometimes means more than just the visible previous finish. You need to get right back to clean bare wood before starting with the new finish.
1.Neck colour coat (amber / yellow stain)
2. Top Coat (oil based lacquer)
Are both of these based on Osmo Oil?
And if so, does that mean you don't really need the second 'top coat'?
2. A thinner / spirit
3. Resin or lacquer or wax
Osmo Polyx seems to be one of these. There are a few others, but the formulations (i.e. the ingredients, let alone their relative proportions) seem to be secret.
Other possibles include Danish oil - but difficult to find out the presence or absence of the last to ingredient (lacquer / wax).