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I'll bear your advice in mind.
My thinking behind putting the pushpush on the volume is that position 1&3 of my esquire wiring will bypass the tone pot completely, so I'd need to have the switch on Vol for it to be in the circuit to maintain all my options.
Position1: Eldred cocked wah (caps->vol->Jack)
Position2: standard volume & tone
Position3: bypass tone (p'up->vol->Jack)
That's the plan.
I got the wiring diagram from premierguitar.com
Of course the switch is unnecessary if I go with the oil city p'up. I think that's the first decision I need to make.
I've acquired a heat gun & soldering iron.
I've ordered my capacitors & a couple of other bits & bobs.
I also finally got around to taking off the control plate & having a look at the existing wiring and, more importantly, the quality of wood I'm dealing with- my whole refinish plan rests upon this being a solid slab body (no cheeky veneers).
This is what I found: the grain looks consistent throughout the depth of the body & matches the surface too! Phew.
http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b625/stimpsonslostson/Mobile Uploads/04160EA6-C5A0-4659-8B54-FA8F30358D6A_zpsmr11df3z.jpg
I used my soldering iron for the first time! (Having watched a YouTube tutorial). That along with a screwdriver resulted in this:
http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b625/stimpsonslostson/Mobile Uploads/86CFD1DB-2FC2-4C41-AA2E-4DFD08E924B2_zpsxdpijvdj.jpg
All the screws are taped safely to the back of their respective parts, so hopefully I'll get it back together again!
Next up: Heat stripping poly at the lab & then using Wez's awesome tutorial for tru-oil finishing the guitar.
I fired up the heat gun.
Step1. This is messy... Cover your floor with newspaper. Gather your implements.
http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b625/stimpsonslostson/Mobile Uploads/2F9CF38E-69D0-4C81-A643-739BC7F8C4E4_zpscpvuptof.jpg
Step 2: heat the finish with the gun. It'll start to bubble as it softens, get the scraper on there & GENTLY scrape the soft finish off.
I suggest starting on the back, or as I did, under the pick guard- so any scorching won't ruin your aesthetic.
Here's mid way.
http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b625/stimpsonslostson/Mobile Uploads/C513F8E1-19C2-4085-BDAF-452E02522237_zpshwu7y7xm.jpg
After a while you'll end up with bare wood. The edges are hard to do, I'll tidy up using sandpaper in a day or two as there's quite a lot of the undercoat in the contours.
http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b625/stimpsonslostson/Mobile Uploads/93F84BD0-8C3B-4D3D-AC88-E882345FA662_zpspgixoz4o.jpg
There's a scorch near the horn on mine- it'll be covered, but overall it looks ok.
Of slightly greater concern is the crack that's opened up a bit at the join of the two pieces of the body. It's thin, not deep & only on the top of the guitar.
I intend to fill it by injecting it (working in a lab means hypodermic needles are easy to get) with thin wood glue & wood dust.
Any expert advice on this course of action is appreciated.
Hopefully that'll be it ready for finer sanding & oiling. I'll keep you posted.
It looks like you've gone too hot on the poly, it really only needs gently warming for it to start to lift, if it's bubbling it'll be a messy affair, plus too hot will melt the glue in the joins.
It's going to look great though.
http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/61134/sarge/p1
The back is better- I'd got the hang of warm & move rather than focusing on one spot.
Glad you like it.
Is this going to be stained or just oiled? Either way it's a nice grain and will look tops!
http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/61134/sarge/p1
Today I gently sanded the area near the cracks, guided the resulting dust into the crack & then injected Titebond wood glue until they were filled.
Next, carefully wiped up any excess glue/dust mix.
It looks really good, all the cracks have totally vanished.
I'll leave it 24hrs at least for the glue to set and then start sanding off the remaining imperfections.
There's no rush... My wife isn't massively impressed with me covering the spare room in wood dust again yesterday!
Regarding the scorching, it actually looks quite cool now I've cleaned it up a bit. I can see me NOT removing it completely... We shall see.
I also had my first experiment with cutting an LP into a pick guard.
Method 1: red hot scalpel, good clean result, but slow... 1" at a time.
Method 2: Dremmel cutting disc. Fast & easy. A bit messy & imprecise.
Method 3: LP into HOT oven for a couple of minutes, this softens it so it could neatly be cut with strong scissors. When it starts to harden, rewarm & repeat.
I think I'll rough it out with the Dremmel, then use a hot knife & oven to finesse the shape, followed by a final sand & polish to give a good result.
As with all such things, patience is key.
My wiring diagram looks like this:
http://www.tdpri.com/forum/attachments/just-pickups/108696d1326250008-esquire-wiring-eldred-mod-eldred-mod-esquire-jpg
But my guitar switch looks like this:
http://imgs.inkfrog.com/pix/rh9159/3_way__tele_switch.jpg
Can anyone tell me how this kind of switch should be wired to pair up with the diagram? (Or even just how the lugs pair up?)
I could always get a standard switch, but this one works fine. So I'm reluctant to do so.