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Wudtone is an alternative for colours - they work great mostly. Some bits of wood seem oddly resilient, though I've never had that issue myself. It's best suited to grainy stuff and isn't as super smooth as the wet oil stuff wez does - it's more like sunken nitro. I bloody love it, very tactile, looks great and is relatively easy.
But if you're dead set on the oil finish method (I will try it one day because, having seen @alnico's tele, it's a wonderful feeling finish) it's worth checking all of this stuff first.
You *may* be able to use a wudtone base colour coat followed by a week or two to cure and then tru oil that... But I don't know at all and I'd imagine the wet sanding would disturb it.
I`ll be attempting my first partscaster in a few weeks ,so a couple of questions for you more experienced chaps.
How much oil should I buy for an ash body and maple neck ?
Does Tru oil impart any colour , I don`t want a white , pale , anaemic looking thing when I`ve finished.
What is the finish like on ash if you don`t grain fill ?
Has anybody tried Liberon finishing oil?
I use it on my oak worktops in the kitchen , comes up nice , seems quite hard.
Jewellers rouge any good for polishing , or am I just being silly .
( I`m just thinking of whats in the cupboard under the sink , LOL.)
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It does go a long long way, so best to buy a small bottle to see if you like the feel of the finish first.
And it does have a slight amber tint to it, I've used coffee and tea to help along the tint on ash and maple before to good effect.
http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/61134/sarge/p1
One thing I've found tricky. The oil gets very sticky, and I find that by the time I've wet sanded the front back and sides, some residue will have found its way onto the bits I did first and become very sticky. Tonight once I'd finished the wet sanding I immediately gave it a firm buff with a microfibre cloth which seems to have done the trick, however I'm not sure how much of the oil will have survived and sunk in. Looking nice though.
I'm doing a neck too though am only on the first wet sanded coat for that. Between the frets is the tricky bit as expected. @wezv do you think sanding with the grain really matters when wet sanding with the oil? I've tried giving sanding across the fretboard (ie at 90 degrees to the grain) on the first fret a blast and it's not looking too bad. The frets themselves also end up covered in oil - I've just been wiping them down after the oil goes on but they may need a good buff when done.
Quite enjoying the process
Not tried it with tinted briwax, give it a go
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Thanks Sarge
Does anyone know , can you put Tru Oil on over nitro ?
I`m just trying to figure out the best way to do a neck/headstock , esp. regarding the waterslide .
I`ve already done the body in Tru Oil , looking really good,
but as I already have a can of nitro , I might just use it for the neck ,as it was already poly sealed when I bought it , I`m just worried nitro might damage the waterslide if I spray over it .
Just found an unopened tin of briwax under the sink as well ( bought originally for my oak doors)
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Somehow, I've either applied it inconsistently or over sanded in some areas, because now it's had time to settle, there are lighter streaks along the sides. Can these be patched by doing a bit more oiling, or would it be difficult to blend them in? (A lot of the other marks you can see are just dust, but I don't know where the black one's come from.)
The black mark looks suspiciously like a tool mark
the light marks should come out with more wetsanding, unless their is still some sealer there stopping it. might be worth going back a few grades on this small area
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There was no sealer on the body at all, apparently. KitBuiltGuitars.co.uk say they don't put any on.
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electric proddy probe machine
My trading feedback thread