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Fender Classic Player - why get a USA standard?

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  • flyingvflyingv Frets: 555
    The tone pot with the bridge pickup.............. Poxy predictive text!! 
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  • ElwoodElwood Frets: 454
    Next question guys: Which models have a nitro finish and modern radius/frets (without venturing into Custom Shop)?

    All I can see is AVRI stuff with 7.25 and skinny frets.
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  • munckeemunckee Frets: 12376
    I had a 2 tone 50s CP strat which was great quality, particularly the pickups.  I found the v shape made my wrist ache after a while though which doesn't happen with C shapes etc.  The 60th anniversary in nitro looks great, except fo my tastes the gold hardware.  
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  • siraxemansiraxeman Frets: 1935
    edited December 2017
    HAL9000 said:
    I've played a few Classic Players and Classics and they've all been very nice indeed. I think if you want 22 frets and/or the truss rod adjustment at the headstock end then you need the USA Std. Also, I'd guess that the Classics and Classic Players have alloy sustain blocks rather than steel.


    ^^ This, also a hard case and a tone control on the bridge pup. Of coarse you can mod the tone control to work the bridge pup and buy a hardcase...but those things apart they're pretty close. Well I can speak of the 60's Classic Player - as that's one I owned till about a year ago. It even had the 2 point trem like on a USA Standard. I now have 3 USA Series/Standards and let my CP60's go for £400, losing me ony £50 on what I paid for it a year or so before. Had I kept it I'd have eventually got around to modding that bridge to work from a tone pot like on a USA.

    I remember 1 gig when I was using my then CP60s Strat, and we do a cover of the GnR version of KOHD and in the 2nd solo it has a bend on the 22nd fret of the B string...then hits the 22nd top E the releases the bent note....and I only just realised a second or 2 before that in this instance I was missing the all important 22nd fret.. :o:

    But if you think in terms of a used like for like, the differences seem worth the £200ish of extra wedge IMO.

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  • ElwoodElwood Frets: 454
    Cheers guys. Looks like the USA is worth it for me. 
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  • thegummythegummy Frets: 4389
    I literally made that decision when I bought my Strat - would have happily gone for a higher end Mexican but it's just that I didn't like the look of the Classic Player ones and the American Standard was reduced so I felt it worth paying a bit extra to get one I liked the look of.

    Do the Classic Players come with rolled edges on the fretboard? I think I remember that being a benefit of the American. Also you get a hard case.

    When it came to buying a Precision Bass, there was a higher end Mexican that was perfect for me which I bought, just like I'd have bought the Classic Player if I liked the look of it (although I'd have had to buy a case which would have reduced the price difference).

    I may well have liked the pickups in the CP, couldn't tell you. I know I love the CS Fat 50s in my American Standard.
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  • AlterlifesonAlterlifeson Frets: 477
    edited December 2017
    Elwood said:
    Next question guys: Which models have a nitro finish and modern radius/frets (without venturing into Custom Shop)?

    All I can see is AVRI stuff with 7.25 and skinny frets.
    I don't believe you can get nitro and modern specs below the CS price point. Fender offer the Classic Series with a nitro finish, but they still retain the skinny frets and radius as the originals. If they did the Classic Laquer series with the neck of the Classic Player I bet a lot of people would be all over it!
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  • crunchmancrunchman Frets: 11452
    Elwood said:
    Next question guys: Which models have a nitro finish and modern radius/frets (without venturing into Custom Shop)?

    All I can see is AVRI stuff with 7.25 and skinny frets.
    I don't believe you can get nitro and modern specs below the CS price point. Fender offer the Classic Series with a nitro finish, but they still retain the skinny frets and radius as the originals. If they did the Classic Laquer series with the neck of the Classic Player I bet a lot of people would be all over it!
    I think this is deliberate.  Try to force people to spend more on a CS guitar to get the specs they want.
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  • rprrpr Frets: 310
    Vintage Hot Rod?
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  • rpr said:
    Vintage Hot Rod?
    Good shout! Are they still being produced? 
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  • ElwoodElwood Frets: 454
    Will give them a google!
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  • ElwoodElwood Frets: 454
    Any experience with a Highway 1 strat - the older small headstock version?
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  • impmannimpmann Frets: 12667
    thegummy said:

    Do the Classic Players come with rolled edges on the fretboard? I think I remember that being a benefit of the American. Also you get a hard case.


    To be honest, rolling the fingerboard edges takes less than 10 minutes to do with a screwdriver. Our own @WezV has done a tutorial on this and its so simple to do, I really don't understand why so many folks make a big deal of it.


    Never Ever Bloody Anything Ever.

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  • breakstuffbreakstuff Frets: 10278
    impmann said:
    thegummy said:

    Do the Classic Players come with rolled edges on the fretboard? I think I remember that being a benefit of the American. Also you get a hard case.


    To be honest, rolling the fingerboard edges takes less than 10 minutes to do with a screwdriver. Our own @WezV has done a tutorial on this and its so simple to do, I really don't understand why so many folks make a big deal of it.


    I will add,though,do not try this method on a lacquered maple neck.I stupidly tried it on my Classic Player 50's,and not taking into account the lacquered neck,I ended up cracking the laquer on the first fret,causing a strip about an inch long to peel off.Managed to crudely repair it to a point where you can see it but not feel it.
    Laugh, love, live, learn. 
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 16691
    i use the razor blade method for rolling fretboard edges.   its definitely not one to try on a lacquered maple neck, but works brilliantly on everything else.

    The screwdriver method does work on lacquered maple necks, but only  hen its a relatively thin coat.... As @breakstuff discovered, there is a risk of lacquer cracking

    this is a vid i did years ago - shown on unfinished maple prior to oiling.



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  • impmannimpmann Frets: 12667
    Oops... yes sorry, I was imagining Rosewood... as you were... :s
    Never Ever Bloody Anything Ever.

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  • thegummythegummy Frets: 4389
    edited December 2017
    impmann said:
    thegummy said:

    Do the Classic Players come with rolled edges on the fretboard? I think I remember that being a benefit of the American. Also you get a hard case.


    To be honest, rolling the fingerboard edges takes less than 10 minutes to do with a screwdriver. Our own @WezV has done a tutorial on this and its so simple to do, I really don't understand why so many folks make a big deal of it.


    I guess it must just be that, like me, they don't know it can be done easily!

    I always find it funny when people talk about better electronics in expensive instruments. Even if they wanted to replace all the electronics on a guitar or bass the day they got it, it'd be under 20 quid for the same ones used in high end instruments.
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  • jonnyburgojonnyburgo Frets: 12351
    I’ve got the classic 50s Tele, the only Tele I’ve not sold, not sure how accurate it is to a real 50s one, probably not very, but it feels good to me.
    "OUR TOSSPOT"
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  • tony99tony99 Frets: 7109
    love my CP 60's strat, I don't suffer terribly from gas, but when I do....my strat is a surefire cure
    Bollocks you don't know Bono !!
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  • tony99 said:
    love my CP 60's strat, I don't suffer terribly from gas, but when I do....my strat is a surefire cure

    Same here. Can't see myself needing/wanting to upgrade to a US Strat any time soon. Maybe if I suddenly had a windfall of cash I might want an AVRI, but no way I could justify the extra cost under normal circumstances. The CP is plenty good enough for me.
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