Finished Pics! C18Q1 Swift Lite Version 2

paulnb57

Looking so good Andy, I like Oak, although probably quite heavy in a normal guitar body, in this instance it looks like it will be very suitable, that contouring looks so comfortable.

Andyjr1515

OK - I used to be indecisive but now I'm not so sure

Ignore the fact the the body carve isn't finished yet, but I'm thinking ahead.  Bear in mind that the fretboard will tint down a touch, but this is presently the sort of look:


Thing is, is the contrast good or bad

Would it be better with a macassar ebony fretboard this kind of colour, or is that going too conventional?:

shaunyshaun1234

EBONYYYY!!

Partly because it's a personal preference but it also looks brilliant! 

Sesh

The bottom one does look "conventional."
Whether that makes it better or not is another matter.
The lighter fretboard wood would match the rest of the (through) neck, and might give a nice contrast to the dark pickups.
Let's face it, it's going to look awesome either way!

paulnb57

I prefer the darker fretboard, I thought of mentioning it earlier, but then thought it's your build/preference etc.....

Andyjr1515

My original thought was to got for similar tones to one of my main gigging guitars:


When I first built it, it had a dark fretboard and looked quite ordinary.  The maple made all the difference. 

BUT, the amboyna on the new build is going to be quite a bit darker than the yew, hence me having second thoughts.

I could, of course, ask Jane (who I'm building it for) but I wanted the finished article to be pretty much the first she sees of it...

Andyjr1515

This is probably more representative of the shades:



You see...I'm now swinging back to the top one. 

Andyjr1515

This is probably how they would appear in real life:

Andyjr1515

I sent the above photo to Jane so her actual guitar will still be a surprise - she prefers the dark fretboard

At least it's given me some decent practice on the fretboard radiuser

So this is where I'm heading:


Thanks for the suggestions folks - I think the dark fretboard was pretty much the favourite.

Andyjr1515

The good thing about the change of plan is that it gave me more practice with the home-made radiusing jig 

If I ever get round to building a version 2 there are a few improvements I would make but, to be honest, it seems to do the job.  Here it is after one pass (cutting the radius and then indexing it forward 3mm or so each time):

 
I'm pretty sure the lines on the righthand side is that the two radius ends of the jig a slightly out with each other, causing one corner of the router bit to dig in.  You see the effect more here - but decent first pass rough radius?  :


After 15 mins or so with the radius block it was like this:


I think this was the right decision

paulnb57

Looks better to me! The width of the fretboard at the body end really seems to emphasise the small body size, how much smaller than a Strat is it?

Andyjr1515

paulnb57 said:

Looks better to me! The width of the fretboard at the body end really seems to emphasise the small body size, how much smaller than a Strat is it?

The fretboard isn't trimmed to size yet so it will look artificially wide.  The scale length is 25" - same as a PRS

Andyjr1515

Andyjr1515 said:

paulnb57 said:

Looks better to me! The width of the fretboard at the body end really seems to emphasise the small body size, how much smaller than a Strat is it?

The fretboard isn't trimmed to size yet so it will look artificially wide.  The scale length is 25" - same as a PRS

Just measured it.  Tip to toe, it's 910mm.  A strat, I think, is around 1000mm - so about 3 1/2" shorter in old money

Andyjr1515

I generally slot before I trim to final width - I've had the edges ping off in the past which is not great if it's already at final size!

I've sorted the slotting routine with the G&W mitre box - it works quite well once you've got your head around what to clamp where to make sure nothing moves!


And 1/2hr or so later it's all ready to trim to width:


Looking at the weather, there'll be plenty of time to make a bit more progress tomorrow

Andyjr1515

And here it is, trimmed and ready for putting in the inlays:


As I was redoing the fretboard, I've added the extra couple of fret slots to 24.  The body shape has been designed, on the other hand, for full access and thumb anchor point for bends up to the 22nd. 

When it's all glued up and I can air-guitar it, I'll decide whether to provide the extra cutout area to the 24th or whether that would spoil the look.  I don't think Jane will be doing three-semitone bends on the 23rd and 24th so - for this one - it doesn't matter too much

Andyjr1515

For the maple fretboard I was going to use some NZ Paua to get the contrast, but for the macassar I think MoP would work better.

I cut out a couple of swifts for the 12th and routed the shapes with the dremel precision base:


Then glued them in with epoxy mixed with fretboard sanding dust and added the MoP dots for the other positions:


Then a quick sand with the radius block:

Andyjr1515

Each of the last few builds I've done the fretwork in different ways.  This one is no exception.  Having had some challenges in aspects of all of the other methods I've used, I thought I'd have a go at fretting before fitting the board to the neck.

Also, for this one, I've decided to skip the bound board.

My method of actually installing the frets is the same, though.  I run a tiny bead of titebond along the tang, then hammer, then immediately clamp using the radius block as the shaped caul:


One new thing for me is that I've bought a pair of fret tang nippers - very pleased with those so far...
 

Andyjr1515

OK - this is one of those times when I say 'why haven't I ALWAYS done it this way round????'

I have to say, I found inserting the frets, trimming the fret ends, filing the fret ends and the bevels SO much easier done before gluing the fretboard onto the neck. 

I had a prejudice against doing it that way round, but I think I've just done a flip!

I worked on this off and on over the day.  Still not glued onto the neck but looking pretty good, even close up, in terms of straightness of sides and seating of the frets:

Andyjr1515

I'll do the rest of the body carve once the fretboard is on. 

The two jobs to do before I can do that is to fit the truss rod and to add the demarcation lines to the mating edge of the  fretboard.

Although for the maple board I was going for a bound fretboard using a binding already incorporating the feature lines:


...for the macassar, I've decided to go unbound.  Hence, I need to create the demarcation lines with veneer.

I've glued a maple veneer to the bottom of the macassar and then a black veneer to the bottom of that.

To make sure it's flat, I've clamped the fretboard tightly over the veneers using radius blocks as cauls and the whole caboodle sitting on a very flat and sturdy plank:

   

Andyjr1515

And trimmed, this is how it will look: