Apologies if this is in the wrong sub forum. I recently picked up one of these, and I've got no sound coming from it. If I plug it into the amp, I get a persistent buzz that changes in note if I touch the strings. I get nothing if I play it. The seller said that he thought there was a bit of an issue with the jack socket. I've checked that, and the connections seem solid.
Does anyone have any ideas?
At some point, somebody has changed the control plate to a black one. I thought that when they did this, they'd managed to break the ground wire off the volume pot, and made a hash of soldering it back on. I reattached the solder this weekend, but this didn't change anything.
I suspect that one of the pots has been fried. Does that sound likely?
https://imgur.com/a/SqoOVDw I notice one of the black wires at the volume pot is sitting on top of a big blob of solder, not touching the pot itself.
Comments
https://imgur.com/a/oXnyHwT
The control plate change could have been performed using only a spanner and whatever was necessary to remove the control knobs from their respective pot shafts.
If I had to guess, I would suspect that strain could have been placed upon the connections to the jack socket. That would explain the complete loss of signal.
Is the black control plate made of metal that has a black coating applied or is it plastic? The circuit, as seen in your photographs, relies on the control plate to complete the grounding path.
If you have a multimeter, test for continuity between the volume pot and the output jack socket.
It is possible that the volume pot has been overheated by somebody using an underpowered soldering iron. To be be brutally frank, the stock pots, selector switch and jack are all low budget rubbish. They will fail sooner or later. If you are considering replacing one component, you might as well do a thorough job and replace the lot.
Finally, I suspect that whoever fitted the black control plate, screwed on the selector switch back on the wrong way around.
To be honest, I was probably going to change the plate back to chrome and replace the pots anyway. They're cheap 500k jobs. I think I might be as well changing everthing over at the same time. The question is whether it's worth me getting a decent soldering iron and trying it myself, or just getting a tech to do it.
then check that there is continuity between them and whatever they are attached to (pot, switch, jack socket). this to check for dead/cracked solder joints.
99% of the time, this humming thing is a ground issue (assuming your lead & amp is good).
If you distrust the existing ground path, add an insulated wire between the chassises of the two pots.
I would still check the continuity of the wires first.
Now use the multimeter to check continuity of first the sleeve and then the (hot) tip through the circuit.
One thing about telecasters is the sockets can wiggle about or fall out, it is possible one of the leads has fallen off the socket. If it's not a screened lead inside to the socket they should at least be twisted to get some shielding effect.
Or remove the lot socket and plate and replace with a quality one ready made from the likes of oil city or similar.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
I replaced a jack socket on a Squier Std. Strat the other day which had suddenly died.
All the connections looked fine, as did the socket, but the meter showed that somehow the hot and earth were shorting out (nothing visible). Swapped for a new one, absolutely fine.
If rebuilding the circuit from scratch, using new components, the wisest option would be to connect the capacitor in the Leo Fender penny pinching tradition. Then, as ICBM recommends, connect all grounds to the volume pot chassis.
Thus far, the OP has not reported back on the condition of the output jack socket.
On cheap jack sockets, the contact parts can become mobile, free to revolve about the axis of the threaded barrel. Repeated retightening of the nut can eventually bring the positive and negative metal contacts together, shorting everything to ground.
They're all crap to one degree or another. I wouldn't use anything other than a Switchcraft, it's just not worth saving a few pennies given how much better a part the proper one is.
This one won't be that though, or you would get silence instead of a varying buzz when you touch the strings - that's the sign of a missing ground connection.
That looks like the retaining plate has just pulled straight out of the hole. It's not the cause of the trouble here but it's just a really poor design, and it baffles me why Fender are still making Teles like that after nearly 70 years. You would be better replacing the whole lot with an Electrosocket cup and a Switchcraft jack.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein