Best Top Coats

RussG

Hi folks.....after applying several coats of colour to a guitar body, what is the best clear top coat to apply for shine and durability?
Ta
Russ

Corvus

Usually safest is same type as the colour paint, for compatibility. Most durable as such is 2k which is a spray gun job. Lots of H&S issues with it.

RussG

cheers mate

Danielsguitars

As Bill said and depends on your set up, just use a mask whatever you're spraying 

Deadman

I don't bother lacquering solid colours, just polish them up. What paint is it you're wanting to add durability and shine to?

RussG

Deadman said:

I don't bother lacquering solid colours, just polish them up. What paint is it you're wanting to add durability and shine to?

Its a Halfords rattle can

munckee

RussG said:

Deadman said:

I don't bother lacquering solid colours, just polish them up. What paint is it you're wanting to add durability and shine to?

Its a Halfords rattle can

I used halfords spray can poly over spray paint and it was fine.

RussG

munckee said:

RussG said:

Deadman said:

I don't bother lacquering solid colours, just polish them up. What paint is it you're wanting to add durability and shine to?

Its a Halfords rattle can

I used halfords spray can poly over spray paint and it was fine.

Cheers mate

Corvus

Those are 1k acrylic, stick with same. Do the first coat a bit light, wait a few mins, go wet. This way you're less likely to 'pickle up' the colour, as these are about 50% thinners.

Somewhere not too cold or damp or you can get bloom - a white cloudy thing from trapped moisture.

RussG

Corvus said:

Those are 1k acrylic, stick with same. Do the first coat a bit light, wait a few mins, go wet. This way you're less likely to 'pickle up' the colour, as these are about 50% thinners.

Somewhere not too cold or damp or you can get bloom - a white cloudy thing from trapped moisture.

Im spraying in my kitchen doorway, hanging the body from the door frame and then hanging in the kitchen to dry off. Learnt my lesson on first coat when sprayed in the kitchen.....everything got overspray and the missed went mental!!!

munckee

RussG said:

Corvus said:

Those are 1k acrylic, stick with same. Do the first coat a bit light, wait a few mins, go wet. This way you're less likely to 'pickle up' the colour, as these are about 50% thinners.

Somewhere not too cold or damp or you can get bloom - a white cloudy thing from trapped moisture.

Im spraying in my kitchen doorway, hanging the body from the door frame and then hanging in the kitchen to dry off. Learnt my lesson on first coat when sprayed in the kitchen.....everything got overspray and the missed went mental!!!

Make a 3 sided spray booth from a cardboard box, I used one in the garage to stop myself getting beaten to death.

Deadman

Like I said, I never lacquer soild colours. Lacquering over them is pretty pointless as you're just effectively putting more of the same on. Just put enough solid on to begin with and polish it up.

I always get customers asking for lacquer over the top of jobs and I always have to explain this point. Latest case was a guy I painted a Morris 1000 for in 2k soild black. He paid £300 for the black and another £200 on lacquer he thought he needed. He got the £200 back and a very high shine black car back. 

It's different for metallic, obviously. They need to be lacquered to seal in the flake. 

It's your guitar though, if you want lacquer then go for it. Me, I wouldn't bother. 

Corvus

Normally 1k base needs clear tho, doesn't cut & polish up like celly.

Deadman

I wouldn't question your skills or knowledge Bill! But in my experience off the shelf rattle cans polish up very easily with something as basic as T cut, a rag and a bit of elbow grease. 

RussG

HAHA, what I need is another very cheap project guitar to test out both theories.....sounds like an excuse I can us to justify it to She Who Must Be Obeyed and also holds the purse strings!!!!!

Corvus

Hey DM, no worries mate, there is 'topcoat' 1k I believe but the times I tried polishing your normal basecoat it just kind of smeared up. I'll have another pop at it for sure though out of curiosity and all that.
Russ if you've any colour left over try some out on a test bit of something, see if it polishes up. If so you're all sorted, less money & faff too.

RussG

Corvus said:

Russ if you've any colour left over try some out on a test bit of something, see if it polishes up. If so you're all sorted, less money & faff too.

Thats an idea.....but kyboshes my excuse for another guitar ......ill keep that bit quiet from the missus LOL

Deadman

Ah, 'normal' basecoat as opposed to 'topcoat' 1k. Admittedly I don't have the necessity to use rattle cans working where I do nowadays. Any I did buy back in the day polished easily as I've said.

I've just hand polished (elbow greased not machined!) an acoustic guitar that had matt single pack varnish on it in my lunch break. Came up lovely! Hopefully you'll have the same success Russ. Cheers Bill (the Messiah)

GoldenEraGuitars

Another finishing thread with no pics... doesn’t anyone photograph their work these days?

Corvus

Hi DM, I rarely use a can the last Halfords can was to do a quick repair on a Lexus, it was that satiny base finish that came up a treat with a 2k smart repair clear over it. They might do topcoat 1k as well? Dunno. I just grabbed right colour off the rack without looking around much.

Hand polished, proper I've been doing my Landy lately, so nice to just spray up in one session and walk away done, no worries about perfection, no flat & polish needed, bliss

Deadman

Ha, blimey I used to paint a couple of Landies every week when I was in the forces. Usually straight matt green, but infra red reflective 2 pack, sometimes camouflage and gloss very rarely. They're good old things to work on.
Sorry for the thread hijack Russ