To Bigsby or not to Bigsby?

zepp76

I've been toying with the idea of adding a Bigsby to my Goldtop Les Paul 70's tribute, BUT, I don want to have to drill into my guitar, so is there a Bigsby that'll fit without the need to drill? If so should I do it or should I just fit the aluminium Faber ABR-1 bridge and tail piece I have laying around? The vote is down to you good people, yes or no to the Bigsby?

TheMarlin

Always Bigsby.

Use a Vibramate, removes need for drill holes. 

Bigsby B7 is a popular model for LP’s, if you go for a B7, then also look to get a Bigsby Tuning Stabiliser (and squishy spring).  This mod maximises the wigglesome potential of the B7, but removes all the stiffness from the tension bar setup. Transforms a troublesome Bigsby in an awesome Bigsby. 

TheMarlin

https://youtu.be/-42G8P7niZs

Not the exact video for the B7, but explains what the Tuning Stabiliser mod does.
 https://youtu.be/jpNIAIYSDkE

The mod: https://bricksbiggsfix.com/product/bts5712/

Squishy Spring:
https://bricksbiggsfix.com/product/sss/

munckee

Depends if you are going to stand up with it, they weigh half a ton anyway without adding a load of steel to it!

not_the_dj

It’s your guitar so if you want to go for it. 

TheMarlin

munckee said:

Depends if you are going to stand up with it, they weigh half a ton anyway without adding a load of steel to it!

Bigsbys are made from Aluminium, not steel. They are not as heavy as you think. 

Gassage

Vibramate- the only issue is they decrease the break angle on bridge. And Yay.

munckee

TheMarlin said:

munckee said:

Depends if you are going to stand up with it, they weigh half a ton anyway without adding a load of steel to it!

Bigsbys are made from Aluminium, not steel. They are not as heavy as you think. 

I tried a 335 in a shop once then one with a bigsby the second one was so much heavier, it may have been heavier anyway of course. 

I was was joking anyway yes to the bigsby. 

ICBM

Be aware that on a nitro-finished guitar, even the pressure from the felt pads on the Vibramate can mark the finish - it may polish out, but don't count on it being completely invisible.

The Vibramate also has the advantage of raising the front of the Bigsby by about 1/8", which helps with tuning stability without needing the raised tension bar, and the disadvantage of moving it backwards by about the same which both looks surprisingly odd, and sometimes make it difficult to get the guitar into the case.

In fact, the first thing I would do is check the bridge height on the guitar - Gibsons are notoriously variable, and a Bigsby is going to cause much more trouble if the bridge is high than if it's low, no matter what you do with a Vibramate or a Tuning Stabiliser.

Personally I would avoid softer springs, in my experience they make any tuning problems worse not better, but some people seem to find the opposite. (And I dislike the feel of them too.) More important is making sure the arm bolt is properly tightened - many Bigsbys come with one washer missing which makes it work loose.

zepp76

TheMarlin said:

Always Bigsby.

Use a Vibramate, removes need for drill holes. 

Bigsby B7 is a popular model for LP’s, if you go for a B7, then also look to get a Bigsby Tuning Stabiliser (and squishy spring).  This mod maximises the wigglesome potential of the B7, but removes all the stiffness from the tension bar setup. Transforms a troublesome Bigsby in an awesome Bigsby. 

Thank you for your very helpful reply, I take it from a quick search that I'll have to order the V7 LP mounting kit too? Also, what do I do about the strap pin screw, I have Schaller strap locks to go on but am worried they won't be long enough to accommodate the extra thickness of the Bigsby, is  this the case or am I worrying about nothing? Sorry for all the questions but if I go for this I want to make sure I have all the right gubbins to make it easy for me to install.

munckee said:

Depends if you are going to stand up with it, they weigh half a ton anyway without adding a load of steel to it!

The weight isn't a problem, at 6' 4" and just under 22 stone I prefer a hefty guitar, it feels more natural in my hands having some weight to the guitar.ICBM said:

Be aware that on a nitro-finished guitar, even the pressure from the felt pads on the Vibramate can mark the finish - it may polish out, but don't count on it being completely invisible.

The Vibramate also has the advantage of raising the front of the Bigsby by about 1/8", which helps with tuning stability without needing the raised tension bar, and the disadvantage of moving it backwards by about the same which both looks surprisingly odd, and sometimes make it difficult to get the guitar into the case.

In fact, the first thing I would do is check the bridge height on the guitar - Gibsons are notoriously variable, and a Bigsby is going to cause much more trouble if the bridge is high than if it's low, no matter what you do with a Vibramate or a Tuning Stabiliser.

Personally I would avoid softer springs, in my experience they make any tuning problems worse not better, but some people seem to find the opposite. (And I dislike the feel of them too.) More important is making sure the arm bolt is properly tightened - many Bigsbys come with one washer missing which makes it work loose.

A great reply as always from you @ICBM Thank you. There is no nitro to worry about with the 70's Trib it's a satin Goldtop finish so will be safe. If I go for it I may still mount the Faber ABR-1 aluminium bridge, why not!?

Again thank you to you all for your help and advice.

TheMarlin

Most Bigsby tuning issues are nut related.  You need to make sure the nut is properly cut (attention paid to string entry and exit points of the nut), and properly lubed.  Tension bar Bigsbys can cause some tuning issues, but the Tuning Stabiliser addresses all of these issues. 
The best Bigsby is the B6, but I don’t think LP’s have the break angle to make a B6 work. 

ICBM

TheMarlin said:

The best Bigsby is the B6, but I don’t think LP’s have the break angle to make a B6 work. 

Usually not unless the bridge is really high. Even then it will alter the tone and sustain a lot and make it sound a bit 'Gretschy'.

Teyeplayer

B3 with a towner is another reversible option -if it was me I’d go down this route over a b7. Worth a look.

Whitecat

zepp76 said:

TheMarlin said:

Always Bigsby.

Use a Vibramate, removes need for drill holes. 

Bigsby B7 is a popular model for LP’s, if you go for a B7, then also look to get a Bigsby Tuning Stabiliser (and squishy spring).  This mod maximises the wigglesome potential of the B7, but removes all the stiffness from the tension bar setup. Transforms a troublesome Bigsby in an awesome Bigsby. 

Thank you for your very helpful reply, I take it from a quick search that I'll have to order the V7 LP mounting kit too? Also, what do I do about the strap pin screw, I have Schaller strap locks to go on but am worried they won't be long enough to accommodate the extra thickness of the Bigsby, is  this the case or am I worrying about nothing? Sorry for all the questions but if I go for this I want to make sure I have all the right gubbins to make it easy for me to install.

munckee said:

Depends if you are going to stand up with it, they weigh half a ton anyway without adding a load of steel to it!

The weight isn't a problem, at 6' 4" and just under 22 stone I prefer a hefty guitar, it feels more natural in my hands having some weight to the guitar.ICBM said:

Be aware that on a nitro-finished guitar, even the pressure from the felt pads on the Vibramate can mark the finish - it may polish out, but don't count on it being completely invisible.

The Vibramate also has the advantage of raising the front of the Bigsby by about 1/8", which helps with tuning stability without needing the raised tension bar, and the disadvantage of moving it backwards by about the same which both looks surprisingly odd, and sometimes make it difficult to get the guitar into the case.

In fact, the first thing I would do is check the bridge height on the guitar - Gibsons are notoriously variable, and a Bigsby is going to cause much more trouble if the bridge is high than if it's low, no matter what you do with a Vibramate or a Tuning Stabiliser.

Personally I would avoid softer springs, in my experience they make any tuning problems worse not better, but some people seem to find the opposite. (And I dislike the feel of them too.) More important is making sure the arm bolt is properly tightened - many Bigsbys come with one washer missing which makes it work loose.

A great reply as always from you @ICBM Thank you. There is no nitro to worry about with the 70's Trib it's a satin Goldtop finish so will be safe. If I go for it I may still mount the Faber ABR-1 aluminium bridge, why not!?

Again thank you to you all for your help and advice.

Those 70s tributes are still nitro. 

TheMarlin

Teyeplayer said:

B3 with a towner is another reversible option -if it was me I’d go down this route over a b7. Worth a look.

The B3 is nice, but if you go for that option, the. You might want a longer Bigsby arm. 

TheMarlin

https://youtu.be/Z2ntM3I-90c

I may have a set of these knocking about somewhere....

brooom

I'm actually pondering whether to add a bigsby to a 59 Gibson Memphis ES-330 wildwood spec I just got, but the guitar is so perfect in every way with the trapeze tailpiece, that I might just leave it for now.

ICBM

brooom said:

I'm actually pondering whether to add a bigsby to a 59 Gibson Memphis ES-330 wildwood spec I just got, but the guitar is so perfect in every way with the trapeze tailpiece, that I might just leave it for now.

You have to.

Coolest guitar ever.

SteveRobinson

brooom said:

I'm actually pondering whether to add a bigsby to a 59 Gibson Memphis ES-330 wildwood spec I just got, but the guitar is so perfect in every way with the trapeze tailpiece, that I might just leave it for now.

I've fitted one to my ES-330 59RI. A B7 adds so much more fun, it should be mandatory.

Winny_Pooh

@brooom you will not regret it. 



I tweaked the tuneomatic, (rounded the height adjuster contact points to have a rocking bridge, see pic) changed the way I restring to have less downward angle on the nut and it works a charm. Adding shimmer on that clean neck pickup is beautiful. 

zepp76

Whitecat said:

zepp76 said:

TheMarlin said:

Always Bigsby.

Use a Vibramate, removes need for drill holes. 

Bigsby B7 is a popular model for LP’s, if you go for a B7, then also look to get a Bigsby Tuning Stabiliser (and squishy spring).  This mod maximises the wigglesome potential of the B7, but removes all the stiffness from the tension bar setup. Transforms a troublesome Bigsby in an awesome Bigsby. 

Thank you for your very helpful reply, I take it from a quick search that I'll have to order the V7 LP mounting kit too? Also, what do I do about the strap pin screw, I have Schaller strap locks to go on but am worried they won't be long enough to accommodate the extra thickness of the Bigsby, is  this the case or am I worrying about nothing? Sorry for all the questions but if I go for this I want to make sure I have all the right gubbins to make it easy for me to install.

munckee said:

Depends if you are going to stand up with it, they weigh half a ton anyway without adding a load of steel to it!

The weight isn't a problem, at 6' 4" and just under 22 stone I prefer a hefty guitar, it feels more natural in my hands having some weight to the guitar.ICBM said:

Be aware that on a nitro-finished guitar, even the pressure from the felt pads on the Vibramate can mark the finish - it may polish out, but don't count on it being completely invisible.

The Vibramate also has the advantage of raising the front of the Bigsby by about 1/8", which helps with tuning stability without needing the raised tension bar, and the disadvantage of moving it backwards by about the same which both looks surprisingly odd, and sometimes make it difficult to get the guitar into the case.

In fact, the first thing I would do is check the bridge height on the guitar - Gibsons are notoriously variable, and a Bigsby is going to cause much more trouble if the bridge is high than if it's low, no matter what you do with a Vibramate or a Tuning Stabiliser.

Personally I would avoid softer springs, in my experience they make any tuning problems worse not better, but some people seem to find the opposite. (And I dislike the feel of them too.) More important is making sure the arm bolt is properly tightened - many Bigsbys come with one washer missing which makes it work loose.

A great reply as always from you @ICBM Thank you. There is no nitro to worry about with the 70's Trib it's a satin Goldtop finish so will be safe. If I go for it I may still mount the Faber ABR-1 aluminium bridge, why not!?

Again thank you to you all for your help and advice.

Those 70s tributes are still nitro. 

I don't mean to be argumentative but are you sure? It's a dark back so no lacquer there and the top doesn't seem to have any kind of lacquer at all just a satin gold paint job.