To Bigsby or not to Bigsby?

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  • p90foolp90fool Frets: 31592
    My only word of warning is that a Bigsby makes the neck volume pot much harder to access on a Les Paul, which is a deal breaker for me, but maybe not for others.
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  • WhitecatWhitecat Frets: 5426
    edited June 2019
    zepp76 said:
    Whitecat said:
    zepp76 said:
    TheMarlin said:
    Always Bigsby.

    Use a Vibramate, removes need for drill holes. 

    Bigsby B7 is a popular model for LP’s, if you go for a B7, then also look to get a Bigsby Tuning Stabiliser (and squishy spring).  This mod maximises the wigglesome potential of the B7, but removes all the stiffness from the tension bar setup. Transforms a troublesome Bigsby in an awesome Bigsby. 


    Thank you for your very helpful reply, I take it from a quick search that I'll have to order the V7 LP mounting kit too? Also, what do I do about the strap pin screw, I have Schaller strap locks to go on but am worried they won't be long enough to accommodate the extra thickness of the Bigsby, is  this the case or am I worrying about nothing? Sorry for all the questions but if I go for this I want to make sure I have all the right gubbins to make it easy for me to install.

    munckee said:
    Depends if you are going to stand up with it, they weigh half a ton anyway without adding a load of steel to it!
    The weight isn't a problem, at 6' 4" and just under 22 stone I prefer a hefty guitar, it feels more natural in my hands having some weight to the guitar.ICBM said:
    Be aware that on a nitro-finished guitar, even the pressure from the felt pads on the Vibramate can mark the finish - it may polish out, but don't count on it being completely invisible.

    The Vibramate also has the advantage of raising the front of the Bigsby by about 1/8", which helps with tuning stability without needing the raised tension bar, and the disadvantage of moving it backwards by about the same which both looks surprisingly odd, and sometimes make it difficult to get the guitar into the case.

    In fact, the first thing I would do is check the bridge height on the guitar - Gibsons are notoriously variable, and a Bigsby is going to cause much more trouble if the bridge is high than if it's low, no matter what you do with a Vibramate or a Tuning Stabiliser.

    Personally I would avoid softer springs, in my experience they make any tuning problems worse not better, but some people seem to find the opposite. (And I dislike the feel of them too.) More important is making sure the arm bolt is properly tightened - many Bigsbys come with one washer missing which makes it work loose.
    A great reply as always from you @ICBM Thank you. There is no nitro to worry about with the 70's Trib it's a satin Goldtop finish so will be safe. If I go for it I may still mount the Faber ABR-1 aluminium bridge, why not!?

    Again thank you to you all for your help and advice.
    Those 70s tributes are still nitro. 
    I don't mean to be argumentative but are you sure? It's a dark back so no lacquer there and the top doesn't seem to have any kind of lacquer at all just a satin gold paint job.
    99.99% of all Gibsons ever made have a nitro finish, and it will be all over, on the back and the top - the “dark” is only the stain/paint, but there will still be a nitro topcoat - satin is a dead giveaway too, much easier to do a satin nitro finish than any other lacquer or otherwise. 
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  • zepp76zepp76 Frets: 2534
    Whitecat said:
    zepp76 said:
    Whitecat said:
    zepp76 said:
    TheMarlin said:
    Always Bigsby.

    Use a Vibramate, removes need for drill holes. 

    Bigsby B7 is a popular model for LP’s, if you go for a B7, then also look to get a Bigsby Tuning Stabiliser (and squishy spring).  This mod maximises the wigglesome potential of the B7, but removes all the stiffness from the tension bar setup. Transforms a troublesome Bigsby in an awesome Bigsby. 


    Thank you for your very helpful reply, I take it from a quick search that I'll have to order the V7 LP mounting kit too? Also, what do I do about the strap pin screw, I have Schaller strap locks to go on but am worried they won't be long enough to accommodate the extra thickness of the Bigsby, is  this the case or am I worrying about nothing? Sorry for all the questions but if I go for this I want to make sure I have all the right gubbins to make it easy for me to install.

    munckee said:
    Depends if you are going to stand up with it, they weigh half a ton anyway without adding a load of steel to it!
    The weight isn't a problem, at 6' 4" and just under 22 stone I prefer a hefty guitar, it feels more natural in my hands having some weight to the guitar.ICBM said:
    Be aware that on a nitro-finished guitar, even the pressure from the felt pads on the Vibramate can mark the finish - it may polish out, but don't count on it being completely invisible.

    The Vibramate also has the advantage of raising the front of the Bigsby by about 1/8", which helps with tuning stability without needing the raised tension bar, and the disadvantage of moving it backwards by about the same which both looks surprisingly odd, and sometimes make it difficult to get the guitar into the case.

    In fact, the first thing I would do is check the bridge height on the guitar - Gibsons are notoriously variable, and a Bigsby is going to cause much more trouble if the bridge is high than if it's low, no matter what you do with a Vibramate or a Tuning Stabiliser.

    Personally I would avoid softer springs, in my experience they make any tuning problems worse not better, but some people seem to find the opposite. (And I dislike the feel of them too.) More important is making sure the arm bolt is properly tightened - many Bigsbys come with one washer missing which makes it work loose.
    A great reply as always from you @ICBM Thank you. There is no nitro to worry about with the 70's Trib it's a satin Goldtop finish so will be safe. If I go for it I may still mount the Faber ABR-1 aluminium bridge, why not!?

    Again thank you to you all for your help and advice.
    Those 70s tributes are still nitro. 
    I don't mean to be argumentative but are you sure? It's a dark back so no lacquer there and the top doesn't seem to have any kind of lacquer at all just a satin gold paint job.
    99.99% of all Gibsons ever made have a nitro finish, and it will be all over, on the back and the top - the “dark” is only the stain/paint, but there will still be a nitro topcoat - satin is a dead giveaway too, much easier to do a satin nitro finish than any other lacquer or otherwise. 
    Cool, ok thank you for the clarification. I've genuinely never noticed!
    Tomorrow will be a good day.
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  • brooombrooom Frets: 1175
    @brooom you will not regret it. 



    I tweaked the tuneomatic, (rounded the height adjuster contact points to have a rocking bridge, see pic) changed the way I restring to have less downward angle on the nut and it works a charm. Adding shimmer on that clean neck pickup is beautiful. 




    Looks cool!
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  • ewalewal Frets: 2584
    I know part of the appeal of the Bigsby is the look, however having had guitars with both a Bigsby and Duesenberg Les Trem II, I much prefer the Les Trem.
    The Scrambler-EE Walk soundcloud experience
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  • GrokeGroke Frets: 3
    Vibramate all the way. As said before it raises the Bigsby reducing the break angle over the bridge. I fitted one to my Reverend Charger 290. Things I did; I made sure the nut slots were perfect by filing, then applying nut sauce. Fitted a roller bridge and nut sauced the rollers. Fitted a Reverend soft spring. Result is it will not go out of tune. I love it, from gentle swirls to full on Neil Young and Crazy Horse.
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  • TheMarlinTheMarlin Frets: 7877
    A Bigsby when setup ‘just so’ is a joyous thing. 
    Pretty much all of my guitars have one. 
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  • bbill335bbill335 Frets: 1374
    thinking of bolting a bigsby to my frankentele but the Duesenberg diamond looks... better? 
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  • Winny_PoohWinny_Pooh Frets: 7771
    bbill335 said:
    thinking of bolting a bigsby to my frankentele but the Duesenberg diamond looks... better? 
    It is better made than a B5 IMO and has a smoother action. The roller bar sits a bit higher plus the "handle" is adjustable and comfy. If you don't need a vintage look then go for it.



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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72375
    I think it depends on the guitar - because of how it looks ;). Yes, I know that's shallow :).

    Of the PRS, it looks right. On a Yamaha, a Les Trem looks right. On a Gibson, only a Bigsby looks right...

    (In fact, a Bigsby *doesn't* look right on a Yamaha, so it goes both ways.)

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • SeziertischSeziertisch Frets: 1294
    edited June 2019
    https://www.thegearpage.net/board/index.php?threads/getting-a-properly-working-sg-maestro.1261724/#post-15496008

    This is a discussion of how to get a Maestro working properly on an SG, but the same principle applies to a Bigsby, particularly the bit about the domed thumb wheels.

    I also saw a discussion of Neil Young’s Old Black and his tech Larry Cragg is also of the opinion that domed thumb wheels are a must.

    I had tried everything on my LP with Bigsby: first I tried a roller bridge, didn’t like the sound, then I got locking tuners, which didn’t really help at all, then a new Tusq XL nut installed, which helped a bit, then Graphtech String Saver saddles, which also helped a bit but not enough to make the Bigsby usable, then I raised the Bigsby off the guitar similar to the principle behind BriggsBiggsFix and that helped a fair amount but still no dice. The problem was that the guitar wouldn’t stay in tune with itself. Using the Bigsby, some strings would go sharp, some flat, so after playing a solo with the Bigsby moving back to chord stuff was nearly impossible, as it would just be wildly out of tune. I lost the Graphtech saddles when I got the domed thumbwheels, so now when I have a Bigsby wig out the guitar might be slightly sharp or flat after but in tune with itself more or less.

    Also for Gibson guitars maybe check out the String Butler. I’ve never used one myself but I’ve heard it can help to sort out issues with tuning stemming from the break angle at the headstock.
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  • zepp76zepp76 Frets: 2534
    edited June 2019
    Does anyone have any recommendations as to where to get the Bigsby B7 and V7 vibramate as a kit please? I've only seen them sold together on eBay but it's from the states and I don't want to be stung with import duties and all that nonsense. Many thanks in advance.
    Tomorrow will be a good day.
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  • webrthomsonwebrthomson Frets: 1031
    Thomann sell both, no import duties on them either :)
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  • zepp76zepp76 Frets: 2534
    Thomann sell both, no import duties on them either :)
    Thank you, I'll take a look. Would a roller bridge be necessary or am I ok using my Faber bridge?
    Tomorrow will be a good day.
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  • lovestrat74lovestrat74 Frets: 2529
    Thought this was an interesting watch..



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  • SteveRobinsonSteveRobinson Frets: 7032
    tFB Trader
    Thomann sell both, no import duties on them either :)
    If you buy before November
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  • BridgehouseBridgehouse Frets: 24581
    Thomann sell both, no import duties on them either :)
    If you buy before November
    Maybe
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