Sanding a Glossy Neck

What's Hot
thegummythegummy Frets: 4389
Just posting to say to anyone who has a guitar with a glossy finish on the back of its neck, and hates the way it sticks when you move for hand around, that it is so quick and easy to fix.

I got some 600 grit wet and dry sandpaper, expecting it to at least take a while or adjustments or something. But I dipped the sandpaper in water, rubbed the neck for about 20 seconds or something then wiped it and it's completely smooth now!

Can't believe it!
0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
«1

Comments

  • Quite an elaborate euphemism...
    6reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • thegummythegummy Frets: 4389
    Quite an elaborate euphemism...
    Brilliant
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • alexhalexh Frets: 58
    I did the same with some 1000 grit, surprisingly quick to do. If the neck is old it can reveal some dings though.
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • JD50JD50 Frets: 660
    I use Brillo pads
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • thegummythegummy Frets: 4389
    JD50 said:
    I use Brillo pads
    I saw some people recommending that but apparently you have to do re-do it every 6 months or so?
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • 1200 grit wet and dry, dipped in a bit of liquid - does the trick every time, if things are getting a little sticky
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • guitars4youguitars4you Frets: 14355
    tFB Trader
    I use Scotch Brite Pads - different grades available - But I only use them to take the sheen of - So not down to bare wood - Obviously will depend on the guitar and project - Some like the EVH/Musicman format but needs a wax/oil blend after

    The Scotch Brite pads are clean n easy to use - No mess - Take a bit off - Check it out and repeat as necessary
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • LastMantraLastMantra Frets: 3825
    I've got a guitar which has always had problems with the finish. Lacquer could get quite tacky/soft in certain conditions, bit of "orange peel" -ing, and just very dull looking. 
    Have just finished trying to improve it. I used a mixture of couple of different grades of scotchbright, some very fine w n' d on the neck. Then brasso all over, then some silver polishing cloth I found in local hrdwre shop, which is used wet then dry. Then gave it a good buff up with beeswax.

    Has worked well. Looks much better, and more importantly feels lush!

    Broke the electrics when I took them out right enough. Don't know what I've done. Might just find a schematic and start again. 

    It's a Gibson 'THE Paul'...should be same kind of setup as an SG?
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • thegummythegummy Frets: 4389
    1200 grit wet and dry, dipped in a bit of liquid - does the trick every time, if things are getting a little sticky
    At first I was going to take the advice of Crimson Guitars guy on YouTube and use 400 grit.

    But I asked my brother who is a decorator and he said 400 might be a bit rough so I went with 600 and it worked.

    I wonder if there may be potential benefit of using as fine a grit that does the job.
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • thegummythegummy Frets: 4389
    I use Scotch Brite Pads - different grades available - But I only use them to take the sheen of - So not down to bare wood - Obviously will depend on the guitar and project - Some like the EVH/Musicman format but needs a wax/oil blend after

    The Scotch Brite pads are clean n easy to use - No mess - Take a bit off - Check it out and repeat as necessary
    Does that mean MM have oiled wood necks?

    If so, I didn't know that. I'm considering a MM bass as my next purchase. Will definitely need to play one first if the neck is different to anything I've played.

    Does it apply to the Sterling line too?

    Incidentally I really wish there was some kind of guitar library where I could rent an instrument for a week to see if I like it. I don't find 20 minutes in a shop very useful.
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • guitars4youguitars4you Frets: 14355
    tFB Trader
    thegummy said:
    I use Scotch Brite Pads - different grades available - But I only use them to take the sheen of - So not down to bare wood - Obviously will depend on the guitar and project - Some like the EVH/Musicman format but needs a wax/oil blend after

    The Scotch Brite pads are clean n easy to use - No mess - Take a bit off - Check it out and repeat as necessary
    Does that mean MM have oiled wood necks?

    If so, I didn't know that. I'm considering a MM bass as my next purchase. Will definitely need to play one first if the neck is different to anything I've played.

    Does it apply to the Sterling line too?

    Incidentally I really wish there was some kind of guitar library where I could rent an instrument for a week to see if I like it. I don't find 20 minutes in a shop very useful.
    I can only vouch for the EVH models and the Axis Super Sports, which have a blend of wax+ oil rubbed into the maple neck (plus maple fingerboard as applicable) - I've not sold or played an MM bass for many years - maybe others can help on this
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • HoofHoof Frets: 494
    I used a green kitchen scourer on my Gibson SG and my Fret King Esprit. They work really well and both guitars play so much better without the glossy finish on the back of the necks. My 96 LP custom doesn't feel quite so sticky (the finish on that is wearing through now anyway) so I probably won't bother on that but for any new guitar that is definitely a keeper or not valuable enough to worry about I'd recommend it.
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • tony99tony99 Frets: 7131
    thegummy said:
    1200 grit wet and dry, dipped in a bit of liquid - does the trick every time, if things are getting a little sticky
    At first I was going to take the advice of Crimson Guitars guy on YouTube and use 400 grit.

    But I asked my brother who is a decorator and he said 400 might be a bit rough so I went with 600 and it worked.

    I wonder if there may be potential benefit of using as fine a grit that does the job.
    I think generally the finer the grit, the easier it'll be to shine back up again, not necessarily a benefit of course depending on your preference.
    Bollocks you don't know Bono !!
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • I think it depends what you're trying to achieve. 
    A 1200 grit will just take the stick off. 
    Imo 400 or 600 could dig in to the lacquer and actually effect the finish but also depends how much lacquer you want to remove. 
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • tony99tony99 Frets: 7131
    Bare in mind finer grits are usually used prior to an actual finish, normally to flatten out the unwanted orange peely effect or remove unwanted bits of shit (not actual shit) before being buffed to a mirror like shine in which you can see your happy smiling reflection 
    Bollocks you don't know Bono !!
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • FunkfingersFunkfingers Frets: 14568
    Broke the electrics when I took them out right enough. Don't know what I've done. Might just find a schematic and start again. 
    Post a few photographs of your controls. Somebody will probably be able to spot any evidence of damage or broken connections.
    You say, atom bomb. I say, tin of corned beef.
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • LastMantraLastMantra Frets: 3825
    Broke the electrics when I took them out right enough. Don't know what I've done. Might just find a schematic and start again. 
    Post a few photographs of your controls. Somebody will probably be able to spot any evidence of damage or broken connections.
    Thanks m8. Just studied a few pics online and figured it out. Broken wire and cap leg. Guitar is nearly 40yo suppose. 
    One thing I might change is the caps, the tone controls don't really do a hell of a lot. 
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • KittyfriskKittyfrisk Frets: 18964
    I've got a guitar which has always had problems with the finish. Lacquer could get quite tacky/soft in certain conditions, bit of "orange peel" -ing, and just very dull looking. 
    Have just finished trying to improve it. I used a mixture of couple of different grades of scotchbright, some very fine w n' d on the neck. Then brasso all over, then some silver polishing cloth I found in local hrdwre shop, which is used wet then dry. Then gave it a good buff up with beeswax.

    Has worked well. Looks much better, and more importantly feels lush!

    Broke the electrics when I took them out right enough. Don't know what I've done. Might just find a schematic and start again. 

    It's a Gibson 'THE Paul'...should be same kind of setup as an SG?
    Don't forget that 'The Paul' was originally a satin finish, not gloss.

    If you do swap the caps, keep the old ones as there is always a completist that will want them  ;)
    Are the pickups the original T-Tops?
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • LastMantraLastMantra Frets: 3825
    I've got a guitar which has always had problems with the finish. Lacquer could get quite tacky/soft in certain conditions, bit of "orange peel" -ing, and just very dull looking. 
    Have just finished trying to improve it. I used a mixture of couple of different grades of scotchbright, some very fine w n' d on the neck. Then brasso all over, then some silver polishing cloth I found in local hrdwre shop, which is used wet then dry. Then gave it a good buff up with beeswax.

    Has worked well. Looks much better, and more importantly feels lush!

    Broke the electrics when I took them out right enough. Don't know what I've done. Might just find a schematic and start again. 

    It's a Gibson 'THE Paul'...should be same kind of setup as an SG?
    Don't forget that 'The Paul' was originally a satin finish, not gloss.

    If you do swap the caps, keep the old ones as there is always a completist that will want them  ;)
    Are the pickups the original T-Tops?
    Hi kf. Yeah they are t-tops. Sounds good. It's a deluxe (in avatar) gold-burst. I'd say it looks way "cleaner" but still well used. Sticky-ness has all but gone. It's around 80/81 iirc.

    I've certainly been playing it more already!

    I trimmed the leg of the broken one and soldered a new leg on  :o Don't see me selling it anyway  :)

    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • KittyfriskKittyfrisk Frets: 18964
    I've got a guitar which has always had problems with the finish. Lacquer could get quite tacky/soft in certain conditions, bit of "orange peel" -ing, and just very dull looking. 
    Have just finished trying to improve it. I used a mixture of couple of different grades of scotchbright, some very fine w n' d on the neck. Then brasso all over, then some silver polishing cloth I found in local hrdwre shop, which is used wet then dry. Then gave it a good buff up with beeswax.

    Has worked well. Looks much better, and more importantly feels lush!

    Broke the electrics when I took them out right enough. Don't know what I've done. Might just find a schematic and start again. 

    It's a Gibson 'THE Paul'...should be same kind of setup as an SG?
    Don't forget that 'The Paul' was originally a satin finish, not gloss.

    If you do swap the caps, keep the old ones as there is always a completist that will want them  ;)
    Are the pickups the original T-Tops?
    Hi kf. Yeah they are t-tops. Sounds good. It's a deluxe (in avatar) gold-burst. I'd say it looks way "cleaner" but still well used. Sticky-ness has all but gone. It's around 80/81 iirc.

    I've certainly been playing it more already!

    I trimmed the leg of the broken one and soldered a new leg on  :o Don't see me selling it anyway  :)

    Ah, I see. I was referring to the all Walnut original 1979-81 issue of "The Paul".
    Yours seems to be a slightly later Firebrand "The Paul' Deluxe, all mahogany, so I'm not sure what the finish would be on those (probably nitro?).
    Glad you got sorted though, enjoy 
    :) 
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
Sign In or Register to comment.