Loose Strat Whammy Bar

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Calum13Calum13 Frets: 37
edited August 2019 in Guitar
I recently got a MIJ Traditional 60s Strat but there is movement in the whammy bar. I think this is a common problem. It can move around in the hole. I’ve heard of putting a spring in the hole and wrapping the thread in teflon tape. I still want the bar to be able to move freely, just without the movement in the hole. Is such a thing possible?
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Comments

  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72339
    PTFE tape is the simplest and will do what you want, although if you take the arm in and out a lot you’ll need to replace it often. A spring won’t work if the thread is just too loose, which it sounds like it is.

    The best solution is to replace the block with a steel one with a nylon insert, which will also improve the tone and resonance of the guitar, but it’s not the cheapest option.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • Calum13Calum13 Frets: 37
    edited August 2019
    ICBM said:
    PTFE tape is the simplest and will do what you want, although if you take the arm in and out a lot you’ll need to replace it often. A spring won’t work if the thread is just too loose, which it sounds like it is.

    The best solution is to replace the block with a steel one with a nylon insert, which will also improve the tone and resonance of the guitar, but it’s not the cheapest option.
    My guitar stays in the case when I’m not playing it, so sounds like I’ll need a new block. Any recommendations? I’ve heard good ones about Callaham ones.

    https://reverb.com/uk/item/11886397-callaham-trem-block-us-vintage-repro-ca21015?gclid=Cj0KCQjwwIPrBRCJARIsAFlVT8-GSunu6TCOYaAyKrkeClp8LMvpr1tLd6TFz6AqwO7P62NIaKdyBW0aAiBgEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&merchant_id=122264673&pla=1&utm_campaign=1726164661&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google

    FITS FENDER ORIGINAL 1954-1969; US REISSUES; HIGHWAY 1 (THROUGH 2005); CUSTOM SHOP TIME MACHINE SERIES; JIMMIE VAUGHAN STRAT; ERIC JOHNSON STRAT; ROAD WORN STRAT; MIJ REISSUE (CIJ REISSUE REQUIRES TOP PLATE); CLASSIC SERIES '50S/60S/70S; WD EXACT VINTAGE

    Should probably fit mine, but is there any cheaper options? Or is it worth getting a good one? 
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  • prowlaprowla Frets: 4921
    I like mine with the spring in the hole - the trem arm doesn't flop about, but stays where you put it.
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72339
    Calum13 said:

    My guitar stays in the case when I’m not playing it, so sounds like I’ll need a new block.
    Does it have a vertical arm hole, or angled back?

    If it's angled back, don't remove the arm to put it in the case - just swing it round so it's pointing towards the strap button. This is why Leo Fender designed it with the angle! The vertical hole is a modern bodge on cheaper bridges.

    If it does have a vertical hole that's even more reason to replace it with a proper steel block.

    Calum13 said:

    Any recommendations? I’ve heard good ones about Callaham ones.

    Should probably fit mine, but is there any cheaper options? Or is it worth getting a good one? 
    Callaham are good but very expensive. There are UK suppliers, including @FelineGuitars now - just make sure you check the dimensions, as non-vintage Strat bridges vary! Although I think the MIJ reissue ones are USA spec.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • CorvusCorvus Frets: 2925
    tFB Trader
    If you have a search in Making & Modding there's threads about Kev Hurley, he makes good blocks to fit all sorts of Strats and not mega pricey either.
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  • Calum13Calum13 Frets: 37
    ICBM said:
    Calum13 said:

    My guitar stays in the case when I’m not playing it, so sounds like I’ll need a new block.
    Does it have a vertical arm hole, or angled back?

    If it's angled back, don't remove the arm to put it in the case - just swing it round so it's pointing towards the strap button. This is why Leo Fender designed it with the angle! The vertical hole is a modern bodge on cheaper bridges.

    If it does have a vertical hole that's even more reason to replace it with a proper steel block.

    Calum13 said:

    Any recommendations? I’ve heard good ones about Callaham ones.

    Should probably fit mine, but is there any cheaper options? Or is it worth getting a good one? 
    Callaham are good but very expensive. There are UK suppliers, including @FelineGuitars now - just make sure you check the dimensions, as non-vintage Strat bridges vary! Although I think the MIJ reissue ones are USA spec.

    It’s one of the angled ones, I always wondered why it had the angle. Will the new block affect the tone in any way? 
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  • FelineGuitarsFelineGuitars Frets: 11594
    tFB Trader
    probably improve the tone greatly if its a cold rolled steel one

    Many guitars have a re-sale value. Some you'll never want to sell.
    Stockist of: Earvana & Graphtech nuts, Faber Tonepros & Gotoh hardware, Fatcat bridges. Highwood Saddles.

    Pickups from BKP, Oil City & Monty's pickups.

      Expert guitar repairs and upgrades - fretwork our speciality! www.felineguitars.com.  Facebook too!

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  • BranshenBranshen Frets: 1222
    Corvus said:
    If you have a search in Making & Modding there's threads about Kev Hurley, he makes good blocks to fit all sorts of Strats and not mega pricey either.
    Highly recommend Kev Hurley. Good communication. Made to order so he'll make whatever you need. Well priced. The latest thread on his stuff is here:
    https://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/158767/
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  • I think the Japanese blocks have a 5mm Metric thread so check it is the the correct bar. If it is the original bar you won't be able to put it in an American block. Nearly everything on my 90's Japanese Strat is slightly different, even the pick guard. 
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  • I’ve just done the ptfe trick on my Squier , it works a treat  I got three rolls for thirty bob 
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  • I’ve just done the ptfe trick on my Squier , it works a treat  I got three rolls for thirty bob 
    Thirty bob?! By 'eck, tha saw you coming, lad
    Too much gain... is just about enough \m/

    I'm probably the only member of this forum mentioned by name in Whiskey in the Jar ;)

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  • impmannimpmann Frets: 12666
    Just get a Kev Hurley block (not expensive). Job done.

    Frankly, I still don't understand why Fender don't use a similar system on Strats - the spring thing is a bodge IMHO and doesn't work as well. But I guess they make a good living out of selling replacements for when they fall out and go missing...
    Never Ever Bloody Anything Ever.

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  • Calum13Calum13 Frets: 37
    If I was to get a new block would I need new saddles? I may also need a new whammy bar as someone said the Japanese ones are all metric sizes.
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  • BranshenBranshen Frets: 1222
    Calum13 said:
    If I was to get a new block would I need new saddles? I may also need a new whammy bar as someone said the Japanese ones are all metric sizes.
    No need for new saddles. You best get a new bar from kev if u get one of his blocks. He'll make sure it fits perfectly. The bar is not pricey at all. 
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