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The main point is to engage your brain before taking the photo, the old saying goes that the most important part of the camera is the 6 inches behind it. Having that constraints will force you to do that, make you think all the time and that is not a bad thing.
My work kit is the smallest it's ever been but is still several DLSR bodies and lenses to cover anything that might be required. I still love to make images just for my own sake but I never use my work kit, as I don't like to feel like I'm at work, it's a totally different mindset. So when I'm shooting for my own pleasure I have a Panasonic LX-15 and a Fuji X-E3. If you're going to pixel peep, neither will match the quality of a FF DSLR and L glass but that's not important. They both inspire me to see the world around me as full of images waiting be found and that makes them the best cameras possible.
FWIW, I've not had the Fuji long and have been blown away by how good it feels to use.
95 percent of my shots are an xt2 and the fantastic 23mm 1.4. That lens is incredible. People wrongly compare it to the cheap 35mm f/2 lenses or 1.8 lenses but in reality is compares much more to the premium 1.4 models in terms of sharpness, colour and overall quality.
The other 5 percent are split between the fuji 50mm f/2 (which is also amazing), a minolta 50mm 1.7 lens and a very old screw mount 135mm f/2.8, which is a lovely small lens for compressed, flattering portraits (equiv of 200mm f/4 if you like).
I want the 55-200mm xf lens, and I would love for fuji to release either a 70mm 1.4 or a 135mm f/2.8. One can wish.
People worry too much about specs and full-size crop comparisons because that's an easy thing to read about but that stuff makes no difference when you're actually shooting (again, standard stuff around burst modes and read/write speeds notwithstanding). Fact is, if you're not printing images at A1 size or up AND selling them, the detail stuff doesn't matter a jot, compared with composition, ISO/shutter/aperture settings, light conditions, etc etc.
Too many of us are obsessed with "best-ness", when in reality every camera above entry level is good enough for almost every task these days, so whichever one lets you get those other bits right most easily is the best option.
Usually, but only your subjects know they are having their photo taken. If you are quietly trying to capture moments, without affecting them, you need distance and simply walking into the scene will change that moment. I realise I sound like a stalker, but I prefer not to be seen or affect the scene, to capture those small moments that you hardly realise happen at the time. For a family snap I'd be happy with a 50mm equivalent or even just an iPhone camera – classic portraits are not one of my interests really.
It’s a Minolta Dynax 505si body to go with the 35-70 zoom I picked up last week. Total cost? £8
Doing a minimalist B&W project with a friend - and this will be one of the cameras I use. Our plan is to do a project with the cheapest bits of gear we can get our hands on.
If it works I’m going to struggle to beat that...
The best candid work is usually shot between 28mm and 50mm in my opinion.
HCB did just fine using almost exclusively 50mm and the best street photography I have seen is usually shot on 28mm or 35mm
What I love most about Fuji is not just low light performance but how much you can pull out of shadows in RAF files. 99.9% of the time you can rely completely on just ensuring you're not clipping whites and the rest will just sort itself out. And classic chrome. I'm a bit addicted to classic chrome...
As you say, Fuji don't really make a bad lens. There is good reason that when Hasselblad went digital and needed lenses that stood up better to the demands that brings, they chose to work with Fuji.
For example the 50/1.8 is sharp, fast but IQ? Hmmmmmmmm It's not compared to a 28-70/2.0 zoom if both are shot at 2.8. But the 28-70/2.0 is about 25x the cost of the 50/1.8.
There are some really good cheap primes and there are some bad ones.