Bullet tele modding

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MartinBushMartinBush Frets: 258
edited November 2019 in Making & Modding
Hi all

After some deliberation I am seriously considering getting a Squire Bullet Telecaster. This is on the basis that it's cheap enough to knock about and hopefully upgrade and learn a few skills, while not taking a risk on the second-hand market.

My question is, is it easily upgradable? I am thinking of the following over a period of time:

Bridge changed to three brass saddles - is this possible on a through body model? (this is something I'd do simply because I like the look)
Locking tuners 
New nut (graphtec maybe)
New electronics

Would a Bullet allow these mods? I see that the body is slightly shallower than the Affinity, does that pose any problems?

You may ask why not spend more and go up the range and avoid spending on parts? well, I want to learn a few basic skills and if I did spend more I think I'd prefer to get a MIM Fender model. A Bullet is within my range as far as ready cash goes, anything more and I'd be into long-term saving up or finance territory.

Martin
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Comments

  • Paul7926Paul7926 Frets: 227
    As a person with almost zero experience and no real skills I've managed to not only salvage a charity shop guitar and get it playable I've also completely changed the pups and all the electronics on another.  

    So yeah your idea is sound in principle with a bit of research on your part.

    I've not changed a bridge so can't comment on that.

    I would say that fitting a new nut isn't as simple as it seems.  Well it probably is as simple but nut files to do the job properly are very expensive.  So if you are not looking to invest in those then it might be better to get someone else to do that bit.
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  • I think it will be a mix of me and a luthier to be honest.

    I'd do the things that involve screws, solder etc - anything that may result in a part being rendered useless (ie a nut) I will get done properly :)


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  • JalapenoJalapeno Frets: 6399
    Sounds doable JFDI (Stewmac on YouTube is your friend and mentor)

    ... nut and all (doesn't cost much if you stuff it up) - but do get a proper set of nut files

    if you're in fear of things do one of James' weekend courses https://www.guitartechcourses.com/about/



    Imagine something sharp and witty here ......

    Feedback
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  • MartinBushMartinBush Frets: 258
    edited November 2019
    As regards a file for the fret ends and nut, what's the best source?

    I watch Phillip McKnight on YouTube and find his videos to be excellent and make things seem doable, and he always refers to StewMac. The prices on there appear to be in dollars when I look (and select the UK option).
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  • GrampaGrampa Frets: 955
    I did the same thing on an old MIM Tele (now sold) and learned a huge amount....Hasn't improved my playing but at least I now know that the equipment isn't at fault!
    My other passion is firearms! Does that make me a closet Redneck???
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  • FWIW I am planning on doing very much the same process with a bullet mustang or bullet strat in the not-so-distant future.
    Would love to see how you get on
    Just so people are aware. I have no idea what any of these words mean.
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  • Paul7926Paul7926 Frets: 227
    I found that when embarking in these things my information came from various YouTube sources and the good people here by way of the making and modding section.  If it wasn't me asking a direct question it was by looking at previous questions by other members in the past.

    I also found that when it came to ordering pups and parts the good folks at Axetec took the time to make sure I was ordering what I needed and in the correct amounts.  They also furnished me with wiring diagrams as well.  I'm sure they are not alone in giving great customer service but as I've only used them I can't comment on other suppliers.
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  • King85King85 Frets: 631
    I think it will be a mix of me and a luthier to be honest.

    I'd do the things that involve screws, solder etc - anything that may result in a part being rendered useless (ie a nut) I will get done properly :)


    If you don't have a go though you'll never learn, nuts are relatively cheap, seems silly to not take a stab at it.
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  • Nuts are cheap, a decent set of nut files isn't.

    I should consider this actually, filing nut slots and filing frets are the two things I don't do myself at the moment.

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  • JalapenoJalapeno Frets: 6399

    Nuts are cheap, a decent set of nut files isn't.

    I should consider this actually, filing nut slots and filing frets are the two things I don't do myself at the moment.

    Fret and nut filing are also covered on James' weekend courses https://www.guitartechcourses.com/about/

    (Not on a referral fee !)
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  • JohnnysevenJohnnyseven Frets: 915
    edited November 2019
    If you want to put a vintage style 3 saddle bridge on it you will need to check the current bridge is mounted with 4 screws not 3 as some modern Telecasters are. You should probably also check the screw and string hole spacing matches too.
    My trading feedback can be seen here - http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/58242/
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  • Thanks. It's a long-term project and there's a chance I may like the bridge it comes with... but these things are worth knowing.

    I'm also unsure which is "best" - toploader or through body. Personally I like the through body style myself when looking at the stock guitars, but that's on the cheaper Bullet rather than the Affinity - wonder why that is.
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  • JalapenoJalapeno Frets: 6399
    Thanks. It's a long-term project and there's a chance I may like the bridge it comes with... but these things are worth knowing.

    I'm also unsure which is "best" - toploader or through body. Personally I like the through body style myself when looking at the stock guitars, but that's on the cheaper Bullet rather than the Affinity - wonder why that is.
    Throughbody - top loaders are a pain
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  • paulnb57paulnb57 Frets: 3073
    You could redrill the current bridge to take the three brass saddles, easy enough to do.....the rest is also do-able
    Stranger from another planet welcome to our hole - Just strap on your guitar and we'll play some rock 'n' roll

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  • paulnb57paulnb57 Frets: 3073
    Jalapeno said:

    Throughbody - top loaders are a pain
    How are they a pain! Utter tosh!!....
    Stranger from another planet welcome to our hole - Just strap on your guitar and we'll play some rock 'n' roll

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  • Going back to an earlier post. Is there a UK equivalent of Stewmac?
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  • Paul7926Paul7926 Frets: 227
    OP.  You might want to move this to the making and modding section.  That's where all the folks with this sort of skills and knowledge hang out.  I think you can do it with the little cog icon but failing that just ask the 'stewmac' question in there.  I know there are a few places in the UK that do luthier tools but I can't recommend any personally as I've not used them.
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  • If this is a long term project, why not buy all the parts/bits (most of which will probably be available on here) and make your own partscaster.  It will probably be more fulfilling and arguably a better learning experience.

    If not I'd look for a used bullet, don't see the point in getting a shiny new one to pull it apart.  You might be able to get one that already has some mods on it that will save you time/effort/money...
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  • KittyfriskKittyfrisk Frets: 19013
    Going back to an earlier post. Is there a UK equivalent of Stewmac?
    This isn't what you asked (typical!) but hope it helps.
    It isn't free, but I reckon you could recover your membership costs fairly easily.
    Or team up with some mates looking to buy tools, to offset the costs?
    https://www.stewmac.com/StewMAX/StewMAX_1-Year_Membership.html?utm_campaign=20190303smxuk&utm_medium=email&utm_source=promo&utm_content=20190303smxuk
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  • Thanks for all the feedback so far.

    I would go for a used guitar - I'd ask on the sales part if anyone had one when the time is right. I guess the point of getting a new one is that they don't cost much new (depending on your view of what's expensive) and you know, as someone inexperience, it will be close to OK (ie not faulty or bashed/ dropped) out of the box.

    I may move the post too... thanks for the suggestion.
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