TTony’s Q1’20 challenge ... *ALL 3* done

Andyjr1515

TTony said:

I treated it with Osmo raw first which protects the original colour of the wood from changing when oil is applied.  I could probably have made it more white (as one of Andy's builds), but I'm quite happy with the lovely Korina grain showing through.

Actually, used as intended, the Osmo Raw really does what it says on the tin.  My build was white because it was a very white sycamore wood.  The Osmo finished colour was almost identical to the sanded wood.  And it looks like it's done the same for your beautiful piece of Korina, @TTony ;

For anyone thinking of using it, the key is applying very thin coats (it's why wipe on is useful).  If the coats are too thick, then you get a build up of varnish which can leave a milky patchy effect.

TTony

Andyjr1515 said:

Actually, used as intended, the Osmo Raw really does what it says on the tin.  My build was white because it was a very white sycamore wood.  The Osmo finished colour was almost identical to the sanded wood.  And it looks like it's done the same for your beautiful piece of Korina,

For anyone thinking of using it, the key is applying very thin coats (it's why wipe on is useful).  If the coats are too thick, then you get a build up of varnish which can leave a milky patchy effect.

Yup, I'm happy with the raw effect on the Korina.

I've got a few pieces of relatively plain maple  and I might well try the Osmo white stain on those.  I still fancy a  Ronson-esque LP alike sometime ...

LastMantra

Excellent work!

You glad you stuck with the cherry? Looks really good imo.

TTony

LastMantra said:

You glad you stuck with the cherry?

Yes, definitely @LastMantra ;

In the pics I posted after I'd put the first coat, it looked pretty horrible - particularly after all the time I'd spent removing the old top, prepping and then fitting the new one.  I thought "what the hell have I done" and was close to rubbing it back to bare wood and doing a clear finish.

But now, it's all good.

Patience ... don't panic ... and be guided by the wisdom of @Andyjr1515 !!

TTony

The last one, is done.



This one has been rattling around in my workshop for - literally - years.  I reckon at least 5 years since I started in, and probably closer to 8.

I'd put it aside so long ago, that I'd forgotten why I put it aside.

But this challenge, for me, was about finishing what I'd started, before starting something new (with the exception of the little amp, but that doesn't count).

I finally worked out what was wrong, and posted this photo a few pages/weeks ago.  I'd put the neck p'up cavity too far towards the treble side, so it wasn't aligned properly with the strings.






My cunning plan was to dispense with the p'up rings completely, and make some wider "tabs" that would fit either side of the p'ups, and allow me to widen the cavity to the bass side.  Because the tabs are wider than the ends of the p'up rings, the tabs would hide the XXXL cavity.

Genius!



Except they looked shite.  And, as @WezV has commented elsewhere, I really don't like big bits of plastic on my guitars.

So, Plan C.  You can just see Plan C in the photo above , but this is a full-disclosure shot.


With that in place, I could push the pickup sufficiently across to the bass side such that the strings lined up correctly.

So, that's what I did.

With a bit of sanding and oiling you can still see it, but it doesn't really jump out screaming "bodge".


And is certainly more discreet than the big black (plastic) tabs would have been.

So I claim "result"!!

TTony

Finished guitar ...








I FINISHED MY CHALLENGE!!

(that doesn't happen so often).

paulnb57

Superb Tony!
I’m still waiting for paint to be done! you beat me by a country mile!
What’s next?

TTony

And also ...

Despite @Roland 's compliment, I wasn't 100% happy with the scratchplate on this one


Everything else on this is excellent, but join in the scratchplate was too obvious, and the edges were hand rounded-over, and I wanted bevelled.

So, back to the waste box, back to the bandsaw, a bit more gluing, sanding, staining, bevelling (properly) and oiling later, and I've got this to put on the guitar ...




*That* is a proper edge.

TTony

paulnb57 said:

What’s next?

I have something in mind, and have just paid a course fee that might open all sorts of other interesting options

normula1

Great save on #3. I'd be thrilled with any of these.

Andyjr1515

Beautiful job, @TTony ;   All three of them.

hoops

Fantastic work on all three - such an interesting thread!

TTony

@slimbert

Slimbert

Got the chance to visit @TTony today and had a play on the double cut above...very impressive indeed!

GSPBASSES

TTony said:

But to do that, I'd have to remove the bridge posts.  And they are fixed in tighter than a tight thing that's been done up really - really - tight.  They're not moving. 

Or at least, they weren't.

As luck, and an untidy workshop, would have it, I found the template that I'd used to make the bridge recess.


Stick the template back in place, and use the router to remove the cap, and a few mm of the body too.  I thought that perhaps exposing the top of the studs would free them enough to allow me to get them out.

It didn't, so deeper we go ...



And deeper again ... 




deeper still, until ....





Now tidy everything up



Phase1, done.

 First full day in the workshop for month's, I decided to carry on preparing guitars and neck's for the Black Friday sale that didn't happen last year, hopefully will happen in 4 to 5 weeks. First job was to do some work on some B grade LPJ DC’s. One of them had to have the bridge post removed and re positioned. I then remembered @TTony having a problem removing some bridge posts. I thought I'd photograph the way I do it, it's a bit crude but very effective. If the posts have been glued in I would first heat the posts up with a soldiering iron then leave them out.

I use a crowbar and a piece of wood to protect the body.

And out it come's


Sorry to hijack your post I thought this might be of interest to you in the future if have to do it again, the photo below is it the 3 guitars I'm working on at the moment.

 

TTony

Always good to see another solution @GSPBASSES - thanks for sharing.  I’ve got a set of crowbars too!

Nice looking trio of LPJs too.

Congrats on getting back into the workshop.  House all sorted out now?

GSPBASSES

TTony said:

Always good to see another solution @GSPBASSES - thanks for sharing.  I’ve got a set of crowbars too!

Nice looking trio of LPJs too.

Congrats on getting back into the workshop.  House all sorted out now?

Just about, had to have a new kitchen fitted, the living room and dining room had to be stripped out completely of all furniture and fittings as it was considered they might have been contaminated with asbestos. The walls also had to be re plastered, new floors have now been laid. I now have some furniture more on order. The downstairs of the house and up to the first landing need to be redecorated, but that can wait I just want my house empty of builders for a few months.

Andyjr1515

Most inserts are open ended.  I have a long threaded bolt I use.  I screw it in and once it's bottomed, I just keep turning the bolt and out comes the insert. 

You can also drop something uncrushable in the hole and use the normal screw to do the same thing.

TTony

Andyjr1515 said:

You can also drop something uncrushable in the hole and use the normal screw to do the same thing.

Yes, I tried that technique, but the inserts were NOT moving!

Andyjr1515

TTony said:

Andyjr1515 said:

You can also drop something uncrushable in the hole and use the normal screw to do the same thing.

Yes, I tried that technique, but the inserts were NOT moving!

Ah, yes...I should point out for the uninitiated that there is a mathematical equation involved in my technique:

Wood strength under insert hole greater than insert resistance = happiness

Insert resistance greater than wood strength under insert hole = misery