I've got a bench-top Axminster model which is fairly small, but it's solid and is properly set-up (because I got someone who knows what he's doing to make sure it was set it up properly!).
The infeed and outfeed tables are flat and the fence is set a proper right angle to the tables.
As far as I can tell, the machine is A-OK, 100%, and should produce lovely flat, straight, planed surfaces. Lovely, straight-edged, planed surfaces that are just about ready for jointing.
But it doesn't. And I'm pretty sure that the problem is with the user.
Whenever I try planing something - say a piece of timber suitable for being half a body plank - I end up with a very non-straight planed edge. Not quite banana shaped, but definitely not good and flat and not anywhere near suitable for jointing.
I guess that I'm putting too much downwards pressure on the piece of timber, or on one end of the timber, as it's passing from infeed, across the blades, and on to the outfeed table. Typically, I'm cutting more off the leading part of timber than the trailing part and ending up with a "bump" in the middle of the planed edge.
Any tips?
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I'll get some sacrificial scrap out tomorrow and carry on practising and trying to work out where I'm going wrong. At least that way I won't end up with half a body blank and a pile of sawdust!
Luckily, the saw got through the soft stuff, but it couldn't get through the knuckle before I realised the mistake and removed my finger from the sharp thing.
That took a few steri strips to fix.
I thought the bandsaw was pretty safe. The bench planer scares me.
Let us presume the planer is set up right. The side of the wood that is against the back fence must be flat, if it it’s not you have no chance of getting the jointer to work properly. As already been mentioned use as little downward pressure as possible. I use the left hand to push the block of wood against the back fence with just my thumb on top of the block of wood to apply a small amount of pressure, the right hand holds the block of wood at the top corner as you push across the planer, a small amount of pressure is applied downwards.
If that doesn't help then it's most likely the planer needs setting up again. I'll come back to that tomorrow.
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As been mentioned to get rid of a cup you need to just push it through gently a few times with as little downward pressure as you can (cup face down so its more stable)... With the big one at work I often push it half way through and then grab it from the front (without lifting it off the table).. Its just something you get the feel for after a while. Very hard to tell you exactly..
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I think I can conclude that it is definitely user error. I'm putting way more downwards pressure on the wood - the more my planing is uneven, the more pressure I'm applying to try to get a smooth flat edge.
The top/bottom of the piece are flat - they've been through my thicknesses, and then checked with a straight-edge just to make sure.