FINISHED - Oh, Well - why not

Andyjr1515

I'm overseas again next week so thought I'd better do a bit in my lunchtime.  This is the what we all wish Blue Peter had said - ''And here's one I cocked up earlier just to be able to show you how to fix it"

IF you put the veneer on the headstock and just so happen to notice that it is orientated at 90 degrees to the veneer on the body (not that we would do that, of course...)... then all you have to do is heat it up again with the iron (again, normal domestic will do just fine) and just peel it off:

Anyway, there was enough time to glue another piece - I'll be ironing it on later:

You can tell that the bit of veneer is the one I used for the ink colour trials:

When it's done, I'll be doing a Mother of Pearl inlay with my usual 'swifts' makers mark a bit like this.  The MoP should contrast nicely with the turquoise:

As usual, thanks for looking  

Andyjr1515

Veneer on and trimmed.  I don't like this particular veneer to work on - it is hard and brittle (I think it must be maple).  Another little chip to invisibly mend...  

ThePrettyDamned

Looks smart.

Can't wait to see how you inlay

Andyjr1515

I'm tempted not to colour-coordinate the headstock - I quite like the contrast (it will all be a lot darker when varnished, of course).

What do you think?

TTony

Leave as-is.

WezV

yeah, looks good to me like that

Andyjr1515

Thanks, chaps - I agree - stick with the above.

A quick 'post as I go' for the inlay.  My moniker is a trio of swifts.  This is what I start with:

I then cut out the paper templates.  They will go onto the headstock something like this:

For complicated shapes, most people stick the paper onto the MoP with superglue before cutting.  With these simple shapes, I just draw round them with pencil prior to cutting out with a jeweller's saw.  

I'll post the shots as I progress.

Andyjr1515

First I trace round the paper template with soft fine pencil directly onto the MoP:

A bit of MDF with a slot cut into it clamped onto my computer desk acts as my work-table and a jeweller's saw.  I use the relatively coarse 3/0 blades.  I say relatively because they are still soooo thin!

...they snap quite often...

Andyjr1515

One done - ready for the final filing with a needle file - and two to go.

If you have a go at this, do NOT breathe in the very fine dust.  It is seriously not good for you!

TTony

Nice work.

Andyjr1515

TTony said:

Nice work.

Thanks @TTony.  All tips and techniques freely stolen from someone or other on the internet 

Here are all three:

I think the routing had better be tomorrow.  I'm off overseas again on business next week and she who has to be obeyed has just said 'You're not on that b****y forum again are you?  If you've got time for that, why haven't you got time....'  I think you get the gist 

I'll post some more tomorrow

TTony

Andyjr1515 said:

and she who has to be obeyed has just said 'You're not on that b****y forum again are you?  If you've got time for that, why haven't you got time....'  I think you get the gist 

Nope.  Never heard anything like that here ...

Andyjr1515

On to the routing.

I use a G&MH precision router base on the Dremel with a 1mm router bit (sometimes use a 1.5mm for roughing out):

First job is to set the cut depth just short of the thickness of the MoP:

Then I scribe round the MoP shape with a fine pencil:

Then route carefully inside the line.  Sometimes needs tidying up with a scalpel or small chisel, although didn't need to use those this time:

Same for the others and dry fit:

Andyjr1515

So far so good.  Next is some 5min epoxy and some fine sandings (always keep a little of your sanding dust - fantastic for invisible mends and fills!):

Mix the epoxy and then add enough sandings to colour it reasonably.  Only use the very fine stuff - you don't want big bits underneath the inlays!

 

Put enough in each shape so that when you press in the inlay, it squeezes out and fills any gaps:

Press the inlays in firmly, squeezing the excess epoxy out to fill the gaps:

Finally, clean up the excess epoxy so there is less to sand down and to make sure all gaps are filled:

My progress will now plummet with another overseas work assignment next week.  Mind you, it might give me time to work out exactly what I'm going to do with the fingerguard...

Thanks for looking  

Andy 

ThePrettyDamned

Nice one! How much is a little router like that?

Andyjr1515

ThePrettyDamned said:

Nice one! How much is a little router like that?

I think I originally bought mine from these guys 

It looks like a slightly different design but is a good price at £38.  A UK-supplied Stewmac one is, I think, closer to £55.  Clearly, you also need a Dremel

Andyjr1515

Here it is sanded and first quick coat of varnish.

nutbox

There is no end to you talent dude,keep it going.

Andyjr1515

nutbox said:

There is no end to you talent dude,keep it going.

There is, @nutbox.  Usually about 2/3 into every project a tackle  )

Andy

sinbaadi

Is it just me that sees swifts in all the folds of your table cloth?

They're a cool motif, any particular reason behind them?