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If the guitar is a set or through neck, with a double locking vibrato, check that the nut/clamp is properly centred on the neck.
If the guitar is a fixed bridge Tune-O-Matic type, replace the saddles with new unslotted ones. With the strings at reduced tension, manoeuvre them into the alignment and spacing you desire. Mark each saddle for the required position. Make the notches.
The possible adjustments, if its not obvious, are (1) the nut, and (2) the angle of the neck in the neck pocket. If the nut was skewiff it would be a bit obvious, so I'd assume that the cause here is the neck angle.
In practice, when playing it's not a real issue as long as you don't "fall off" the fretboard when playing but for £5-6K a pop I would want a Custom Shop Gibson LP to be spot on for aesthetics if nothing else.
I'm not sure what the construction process is for setting the sideways alignment of the next when marrying it up to the neck pocket before gluing but they must have a method for setting the angle to the bridge? Although I guess at the time the bneck is set the bridge may not be fitted so I have no idea how it's done!
If I get it, and it needs fixing, this is the 1st place I'm going to come and ask for help. Thank you
Yes, it is a problem - you can see clear evidence from the wear on the fret tops that the high E slips off the side of the board.
If it's a bolt-on neck there could be misalignment at the pocket as well, or the bridge whatever type of neck it is.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Since the offset error increases towards the bridge, part of the problem must lie there. The pivot surfaces could be worn or the posts and inserts could be out of true.
It would help to see a photograph of the string path from the bridge to the top few frets.
If so, make absolutely certain that it isn't going to become so.
Fixing that is going to be extremely difficult, if it's even practical at all. The bridge is fitted in the wrong place - not only too far over to the treble side, but also too far forwards - the saddles are at the backward end of the available adjustment range. To fix it properly you'll need to re-rout the top recess as well as fill and re-drill the post holes. There must also be some misalignment of the individual saddles for the string spacing to be as off as that, but that's the lesser of the issues.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
A side-on photograph of the vibrato pivot posts might show that they and/or the threaded inserts are pulling out of the body wood and leaning towards the neck.
I'm surprised Jackson let that out of QA, it looks pretty bad. The saddles are shunted way back. The bridge looks wonky - look at how far in the bass E comes, away from the edge of the fingerboard - super weird!
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
With this Jackson there’s clearly a difference in E to edge spacing (low vs high) at the nut. The spacing at the first fret will therefore never be 100% symmetrical irrespective of bridge position. It’s not awful at the nut end though, it does seem to get worse towards the bridge.
Its possible the side to side bridge position is off but I think an experienced tech needs to dismantle the tremolo and check the posts and pivot blades. My thought would be if the treble side blade is more worn the whole bridge could be tilting to that side, which could shift the strings even further towards the treble side of the fretboard.
Would you buy it?
Unless it was so cheap that you could afford to have a professional top-rank luthier re-fit the bridge in the right place, which which will probably mean re-routing the recess and refinishing the top - you might just get away without doing, but I don't think so. That means *at least* £200-£300 less than this model would normally sell for, maybe more to be on the safe side.
It also looks like the treble side post has had the Allen key socket chewed up, so someone has Dremeled a screwdriver slot across the top of it. That's a very minor issue compared to all the rest (in theory it just needs the post replacing), but it also means that the action has probably been adjusted at full string tension, so the knife edges will be buggered as well... but I doubt that alone would explain how much too far forward it is - nor the misalignment, since it seems to be centred in the recess.
Sadly, it's just a bad guitar.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
It’s possible with the trem adjusted and fresh blades it would improve a lot at the dusty end. Perhaps improve further still if the nut was also repositioned slightly (or changed). I think that’s as far as most people would go.
As I said, for me it’s too much of a gamble on a used guitar. If more basic measures didn’t get string alignment within tolerable limits I don’t think re-routing and re-drilling to change the bridge position is realistic.