Old Stanley No 4 - Restored

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strat84strat84 Frets: 322
edited May 2023 in Making & Modding
I recently had a rummage through my Grandad's shed and came across an old plane. I was close to binning it as it looked a bit of a mess but I'd seen one of Paul Sellers' YouTube vids where he restores an old Stanley No 4 so thought I'd try and do the same.

Turns out that's exactly what it is. Not only that but after taking it apart and dating it with the patent numbers it looks like it's a type 10 from 1907-1909. Im sure these are pretty common but I'm really glad I thought twice about throwing it away. Looking forward to restoring this and hopefully using it for years to come! 








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Comments

  • WezVWezV Frets: 16877
    edited May 2023
    That will clean up just fine, we'll worth it for the old steel
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  • CorvusCorvus Frets: 2972
    tFB Trader
    My one is the same era. Older irons definitely keep the edge better than later stuff. 

    A quick/cheap/safe de-rusting way is get a plastic tub, put hot water in it. Throw in a handful of citric acid (approx tenner kilo delivered). Lob the steel/iron parts in (not sure about brass but safer not to). Put a lid on, scrap wood, anything - not to seal it, but keeps it hot for ages.
    After an hour or two scrub the parts. Rust should be either gone or converted to a soft grey sludge that wipes away easily.

    Dry bits fast, flash rust might form otherwise but it's super light dust and wipes away.

    Citrics very safe, its in food and bath bombs, cleaning agents etc etc.
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  • LastMantraLastMantra Frets: 3825
    Nice.

    I never like to see a plane put down on it's blade though  :)
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  • strat84strat84 Frets: 322
    Cheers chaps! 

    Sounds like an easier way than going at it with some 120 grit @Corvus ; :)

    I'll certainly not rest it on the blade once sharpened  ;)
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  • elstoofelstoof Frets: 2562
    Safest way to leave it is blade down
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72913
    You should rest it on its side if you’re putting it down in the middle of a job, and wind the blade back a bit so it’s not exposed before you put it away when you’ve finished.

    - my first woodwork teacher c.1975

    I hadn’t realised that ‘modern’ Stanley design went back that far - without really thinking about it I assumed it was post-WWII. I’ll have to get mine out and check the dates, I’ve got one that size and a longer one, can’t remember the model numbers.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • strat84strat84 Frets: 322
    @ICBM I was suprised as well, thought this would have been from the 60s. It could well have been my Great Grandad's. 

    Here's the chart I used to date it. The patent numbers on this were behind the frog but I think each 'type' is different. 

    https://linksharing.samsungcloud.com/fG1J2VWe18pV
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  • enjoenjo Frets: 280
    ICBM said:
    You should rest it on its side if you’re putting it down in the middle of a job, and wind the blade back a bit so it’s not exposed before you put it away when you’ve finished.

    - my first woodwork teacher c.1975

    I hadn’t realised that ‘modern’ Stanley design went back that far - without really thinking about it I assumed it was post-WWII. I’ll have to get mine out and check the dates, I’ve got one that size and a longer one, can’t remember the model numbers.
    The aforementioned Paul Sellers says best practice is to place it on the sole (on a wooden work bench).
    According to him any professionals he has known believe laying it on the side invites knocking the blade out of centre and keeping the sharp bit out of the way is much better - a wooden work bench isn't going to dull the blade.
    The important part is probably having a wooden workbench that you are not precious about! 
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  • PhilKingPhilKing Frets: 1504
    My dad's old bench used to have a 1/2" strip of wood at the back to rest one end of the planes on, so that the blade would be lifted off the bench when you put it down.  It was about a foot long, so you could have a few planes out (this is back from when all the work was being done with hand tools).  He was a joiner from doing his apprenticeship at 15, so I did get quite a few of his hand tools to use for myself when he passed away.
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  • strat84strat84 Frets: 322
    I remembered that my mate's dad has a sand blasting machine. He assured me it wasn't aggressive at all, can even be used on wood. 45 minutes later - 




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  • LordOxygenLordOxygen Frets: 319
    Thats a great foundation to build upon. Get some decent paint on there, it'll look a million dollars.  
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  • strat84strat84 Frets: 322
    Cheers @LordOxygen, that's the plan  :)
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72913
    strat84 said:

    Here's the chart I used to date it. The patent numbers on this were behind the frog but I think each 'type' is different. 

    https://linksharing.samsungcloud.com/fG1J2VWe18pV
    Thanks for that. So, I have a No.4 and a No.5, and unsurprisingly they're fairly modern - although still a little older than I expected - both Type 19, 1948-1961.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • strat84strat84 Frets: 322
    ICBM said:
    strat84 said:

    Here's the chart I used to date it. The patent numbers on this were behind the frog but I think each 'type' is different. 

    https://linksharing.samsungcloud.com/fG1J2VWe18pV
    Thanks for that. So, I have a No.4 and a No.5, and unsurprisingly they're fairly modern - although still a little older than I expected - both Type 19, 1948-1961.
    No problem. Ah great stuff, are they in good nick? 
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72913
    strat84 said:

    No problem. Ah great stuff, are they in good nick? 
    More or less, although the rear handles have been broken and glued on both of them - it's very common, since the short grain runs across the handle, which is bad woodwork practice really!

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • elstoofelstoof Frets: 2562
    Replace it with a Gibson headstock
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  • strat84strat84 Frets: 322
    All bolt heads, brass and blade irons have had a further sand and polish - 


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  • ElectricXIIElectricXII Frets: 1182
    Great job so far. You've inspired me to have a go at refurbishing some old hand tools I've inherited.
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  • strat84strat84 Frets: 322
    Thanks! I'm glad to hear that  :)
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  • strat84strat84 Frets: 322
    A fine day for some painting 




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