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Base theme by DesignModo & ported to Powered by Vanilla by Chris Ireland, modified by the "theFB" team.
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Next to mix some glue and water, about 50-50 by volume. Nom.
That gets painted onto the exposed mitre ends - they tend to suck all the moisture out of the glue otherwise, leaving a brittle joint. I got this from a Fine Woodworking box-making book, and it seems to work. I made a hexagonal box a few years ago and despite no corner keys or pins it's still in one piece.
And I decided on the rod clamps as they're easier to square than the band clamps. Got them all set up ready to go, but I won't glue until tomorrow so the size has properly dried. I wonder if size is the right word.
So; a bit of measuring and I have this; set to leave 5mm below the slot, and to cut just under the thickness of the sides. I'm never happy about removing the crown guard, but the risks can be mitigated.
On Youtube you can find any number of Americans doing this sort of thing, but using a push-block to move the workpiece over the blade, which is just insane - you're applying force with your hands directly over the blade and pushing towards it. If there's kickback the workpiece will depart at a significant speed, usually taking the push-block with it, and your hands go straight onto the blade. Instead the HSE recommends (very sensibly) using two push sticks, which means your hands are at least 40-45cm from the blade.
Ta-da. Cut to within about 0.2mm of the thickness.
And an out-of-focus (sorry) shot from the end - the remaining web is strong enough to stop the box from collapsing in on itself, but thin enough to cut with a Stanley blade.
Final assembly - assuming all goes well - probably next weekend.
Nil Satis Nisi Optimum
Unclamped and all is good - slight mismatch at one corner but nothing that can't be planed away later.
So; masking tape over each corner because pencil doesn't show up well on this timber.
Then mark the pin positions using a lovely little Incra marking ruler with little holes so everything's precise.
Drill the holes on the drill press, and then it's time to put the pins in. I sand the end of the dowel so it's just slightly tapered, then dip in glue:
And tap into place:
And cut off the excess with a flush-cut saw:
And a bit later they're all done - some cleaning up to do but not bad.
Only you can probably just see that it's gone through a pin despite thinking I'd remeasured and rechecked everything. The lid is trashed.
And at least one pin didn't go in very far.
So now I'm not sure whether to bin the lid and go back to just a tray (which was the original plan), or see if I can put some contrasting wood over the tray and the lid where they meet to hide the boo-boo. Hmm.
Fwiw I think to would be an absolute sin to give up on the lid at this stage, especially with that lovely matching grain pattern. Even if you have to repin and glue, has to be worth the effort to save the lid surely ?
That'll look great.
I will look at it fresh once it's properly sorry for what it did.
Slot for the acrylic, at which point there's not enough left to fit the hinges.
I'll have to take a bit off to square the faces up, but hopefully less than a millimetre. Then a 3mm or so veneer.
Going to leave it a while to settle. I did consider filling the holes and then painting the mating faces to hide the mess.
No photos of how (on account of that'd be dangerous), but I worked out a way to set the router table up as a thicknesser, and shaved down the lid by about 1.8mm, so it's all flat and smooth. Did the same to the base, and then chopped up some scrap ebony to make some insert bits. They'll need some more work before I can assemble them and stick them to the lid, but here's a close-up and a mock-up - do remember that there's a load of finishing yet to go, scruffiness at this stage is normal.
Also I meant to acknowledge that this was a good idea - ta!