Ok, this amp issue is beating my local amp tech, and he's one of the best.
The bias on one pair of the 4 EL34 power tubes slowly increases. The amp is a nicholls from the late 60s / early 70s. 100 watts with four inputs. Similar to my old (and sold) Sound City 100 watt Mk3.
I will get a full explanation and the failed solutions soon. And there's me thinking it was down to the fuse blowing every so often (imagine my embarrassment when I left the amp with the tech saying there's something wrong with the amp and he saw that two valves were blown white).
In the meantime, I'll post some gutshots to give you all an idea.
Comments
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
My first thought too, but you'd have to assume that the tech is competent enough to have checked that already, no?
@lukedlb when you say the bias is increasing, do you mean that the -ve voltage on pin 5 is climbing towards zero, or that the current running through the valve is mysteriously increasing whilst the bias supply remains stable?
Rift Amplification
Brackley, Northamptonshire
www.riftamps.co.uk
(Or not unless it’s a DSL/TSL100, which was my first thought .)
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
I don’t know the answer to that, sorry.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
If he hasn't done it already - although I assume he has, if he's experienced - I would disconnect the PI coupling caps at the power valve end first and make absolutely certain it's definitely a power stage problem. If that fixes it, and they've already been replaced, try reconnecting them but disconnecting the NFB loop.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein