Any Motörbike riders here?

boogieman

Well done on passing!

When you come to buy your first bike, most of the Jap 125s are fine and are all pretty reliable so I guess it's just a case of what takes your fancy. You can sometimes get some cracking deals on finance through manufacturers incentives, so don't necessarily discount buying new. Steer clear of the cheap Chinese stuff if possible, they look fine at first and seem great bargains but they fall apart fairly quickly, rust like buggery and the electrics can be dodgy.

octatonic

One of the guys on the CBT has a lexmoto 125- he said it is a total piece of shit and regrets buying it.

I am looking at Honda CBF125, Honda CBR125r, Honda Vandero 125, Yamaha YZF & possibly an Aprilla RS125.

Not sure I'd buy new as it really is a bike for 6 months.

I have a Triumph Street Triple in my sights for later.

strumjoughlamps

boogieman said:

Well done on passing!

When you come to buy your first bike, most of the Jap 125s are fine and are all pretty reliable so I guess it's just a case of what takes your fancy. You can sometimes get some cracking deals on finance through manufacturers incentives, so don't necessarily discount buying new. Steer clear of the cheap Chinese stuff if possible, they look fine at first and seem great bargains but they fall apart fairly quickly, rust like buggery and the electrics can be dodgy.

There are exceptions though such as Sinnis who have full UK support, QC and warranty.. Keep them serviced and greased up you should get some years out of one.. That said the problem with Chinese bikes are cost of parts, higher insurance and resale value, spend 1500 on a Sinnis today and you will be pushing to get 800 tomorrow. So yes stick with a brand and you won't go wrong.. But if the price is right don't dismiss something like a Sinnis, especially if you're only going to be on it 6 months.

Phil_aka_Pip

BenSirAmos said:

I like cleaning my chain and waxing it and adjusting it - in much the same way that I like changing strings, checking relief, adjusting saddles and filing nuts. Don't be put off by little bits of maintenance - they are not that hard to do and I think they increase the pleasure. 

Do your maintenance regular. Thorough frequent cleaning will not only reduce weather wear but also help reveal those nuts that are coming loose or that bracket that is beginning to crack, or that wire whose insulation is getting bare.

I don't know if modern bikes need one but I used a cable oiler regularly on throttle and clutch cables during winter.

octatonic

Phil_aka_Pip said:

I used a cable oiler 

Lib-dem membership pays for itself!

Phil_aka_Pip

@octatonic he he yes but seriously there's not much worse on a cold & slippery road than seized up control cables. You want to be able to pull the clutch without heaving on it, and to shut the throttle when you turn the twistgrip. If your rear brake is cable operated (some are rod operated), oil that as well. A rear brake that sticks on is no fun. If it is rod operated, grease the joints.

octatonic

Ok- I'll get a book on maintenance, I think.

Still buzzing from yesterday.

I'm in a science lecture- just want to be out in the cold, on a bike.

Phil_aka_Pip

octatonic said:

Ok- I'll get a book on maintenance, I think.

Still buzzing from yesterday.

I'm in a science lecture- just want to be out in the cold, on a bike.

Zen and the Art of is a damn good read, but won't help much on the specifics The good old Haynes manuals used to be some kind of help if you really didn't know your way around the bike, but tbh common sense & a close inspection will tell you which bits need greasing/oiling/cleaning etc. Specifics such as which grade engine oil, which spark plugs etc should be googlable.

chillidoggy

Well done Oct! I'm jealous as fuck, Mrs C won't let me have a bike.

octatonic

chillidoggy said:

Well done Oct! I'm jealous as fuck, Mrs C won't let me have a bike.

Thanks Chilli.

Work on her- it is brilliant.

Or... it is easier to ask for forgiveness than permission.

Myranda

Phil_aka_Pip said:

@octatonic he he yes but seriously there's not much worse on a cold & slippery road than seized up control cables. You want to be able to pull the clutch without heaving on it, and to shut the throttle when you turn the twistgrip. If your rear brake is cable operated (some are rod operated), oil that as well. A rear brake that sticks on is no fun. If it is rod operated, grease the joints.

As I am a biker 365 days a year and have no car to fall back on I have ridden in silly temperatures... with ice on the road snow piled up, and my throttle and clutch cables freezing so hard that I was stuck doing between 15mph and 25mph. With brakes being hydraulic I had those but the road was slippy so didn't want them... Not fun.

chillidoggy

I used to lust after the old Moto Guzzi Le Mans. I knew they were supposedly not that good but they looked awesome to me.

Myranda

Moto Guzzi did get better

Phil_aka_Pip

Myranda said:

Phil_aka_Pip said:

@octatonic he he yes but seriously there's not much worse on a cold & slippery road than seized up control cables. You want to be able to pull the clutch without heaving on it, and to shut the throttle when you turn the twistgrip. If your rear brake is cable operated (some are rod operated), oil that as well. A rear brake that sticks on is no fun. If it is rod operated, grease the joints.

As I am a biker 365 days a year and have no car to fall back on I have ridden in silly temperatures... with ice on the road snow piled up, and my throttle and clutch cables freezing so hard that I was stuck doing between 15mph and 25mph. With brakes being hydraulic I had those but the road was slippy so didn't want them... Not fun.

I've been there too. The only hydraulic brake I ever had was on the front.

BTW you can lube a final drive chain with an aerosol, otherwise if you have a split link you can remove the chain, put a tin of Linklyfe (sp?) on a cooker ring (gentle heat, just enough to melt the waxy stuff), and clean the chain (I used to use petrol, then dry it off with a rag) before dunking the chain in the melted waxy stuff. Don't forget to make a little wire hook which you slip through the end and leave dangling over the side of the tin, otherwise you will find it hard to retrieve it!  Have newspaper on the floor ready for retrieval to catch drips, and somewhere ready to hang it up afterwards while the excess drips off and the chain cools down. Another trick is keeping an old chain which you connect to the one you are using now, while you remove it from the bike, so that the old chain can be used to draw the currently using chain back onto the bike afterwards. Saves your fingers trying to thread a seriously greasy chain round the gearbox sprocket

boogieman

I use the aerosol stuff, much easier than taking the chain off! I'm going to fit a scottoiler chain lube system soon though.

Phil_aka_Pip

My Commando had its crankcase breather tube exiting over the final drive chain. Kept the chain well lubed. The aerosol doesn't work its way into the chain links like the Linklyfe product does. Caveat: you probably shouldn't use LinkLyfe on chains that have little rubber O rings in the links.

Fusionista

Congrats. As they say, now comes the real learning.  Stay defensive and within your braking capacity.

boogieman

Phil_aka_Pip;87785" said:

My Commando had its crankcase breather tube exiting over the final drive chain. Kept the chain well lubed. The aerosol doesn't work its way into the chain links like the Linklyfe product does. Caveat: you probably shouldn't use LinkLyfe on chains that have little rubber O rings in the links.

It was a Brit bike Phil, they all leaked oil. >:D< Sounds like Norton had the right idea in making it leak over the chain though.

Phil_aka_Pip

boogieman said:

Phil_aka_Pip;87785" said:

My Commando had its crankcase breather tube exiting over the final drive chain. Kept the chain well lubed. The aerosol doesn't work its way into the chain links like the Linklyfe product does. Caveat: you probably shouldn't use LinkLyfe on chains that have little rubber O rings in the links.

It was a Brit bike Phil, they all leaked oil. >:D< Sounds like Norton had the right idea in making it leak over the chain though.

My Commando never leaked oil. Except there was bound to be a mist coming out of the crankcase breather, that's what you expect. I suspect taking the breather pipe over to the chain wasn't original but that seemed to me to be the best place to put it!

The reasons why Ed Turner's engines (and others derived from them) leaked oil are well known. A properly cared for Bert Hopwood engine (eg the Commando) didn't leak.

p90fool

boogieman said:

It was a Brit bike Phil, they all leaked oil.

Mine wouldn't dare lol. If you build 'em right in the first place they're fine. I've put about 60,000 miles on this in the last nine years, winter and summer, and you could still park it on a white carpet.

I do have sensible/fast bikes too, but this one's the keeper

http://imageshack.us/a/img812/2572/k59g.jpg