We've got a baby coming in December so I'm having to move all my stuff out of the spare bedroom and in to the garage.
The garage is alarmed and has a few locks, and I'll have everything inside insured so I'm not too worried from that end, but I'm looking for good ideas of things to put in there.
I'm already getting a carpet, and I've got someone coming out to quote for double glazing. I've got all the paint ready obviously.
https://i.imgur.com/e77kijP.jpghttps://i.imgur.com/4hrTLYz.jpghttps://i.imgur.com/nY34AnL.jpgWhat could I put in there to help soundproof if anything?
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No point half-soundproofing IMHO, all the way or don't bother. @Clarky uses headphones in his cave (well he did when I went there).
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Incidentally, all the locks in the world are unlikely to keep people out with those single-glazed windows. I'd imagine condensation might be a bit of an issue, too.
I didn't spot the condensation until a large number of rare records had their sleeves turned to wet mush.
Utterly gutted.
The windows only overlook the garden so don't really need to obscure the view. I'm getting toughened glass though.
I use the studio monitors for mixing so I choose specific times of the day for those tasks..
I also use the monitors for teaching now because you don't exactly need high volume for that
Spend money.
Be happy.
if not I would board the walls out with some insulation behind... The right stuff may also help with soundproofing
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The greenhouse seems to get power from the garage also.
Yes I converted mine and I converted a friends a couple of years ago as well. With a bit of thought you can pretty much soundproof a garage down to around 90Hz . Stopping frequencies lower than that gets increasingly difficult the lower you go but luckily normal guitar has very little content below 100Hz ish
To treat the walls batten them and line them with RW3 Rockwool, then a vapour barrier then 2 layers of 12mm plasterboard. Stagger the starting points so you don't get joints in the same place. All plasterboard joints should be taped and filled and joints to the wall \ ceiling filled with acoustic \ fire caulking
Don't flush mount plug sockets or light switchs ... you don't want anything cut into the plasterboard. Surface mount sockets and switchs on top of the plasterboard
Replace any windows and doors with UVPC, measure yourself and fit yourself as normal builders will just under measure and fill the gaps after with foam and mastic because it's quicker and easier .... which will mean the windows and doors will under perform acoustically. Normal UVPC window sills and door sills are hollow and pass sound easily. Fill them with sand before fitting . Any gaps down the side or top should be filled with cement. Only use mastic as a water seal, there should be no gaps without the mastic.
To help a window stop sound better buy another equal sized double glazed unit and mount in around 8 inchs further inside. Bare double glazed glass units are cheap, around £40 for a typical sized window. Likewise the door, preferably build another one inside
My roof was shit originally at stopping sound so I built another false roof below it using 18mm MDF boards hiding more rockwool and plasterboard. As the original rafters wouldn't support that I built the roof entirely self supporting on it's own legs.
I used record very late at nigh at pretty deafening volumes and didn't get any complaints
@sweepy when you say use rubber to isolate the floor from the wall what do you mean?
At the minute the plasterboard has a few inch gap to the floor. I was thinking of getting skirting boards. Bad idea? Fill the gap with rubber instead?