Man cave ideas please!

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DefaultMDefaultM Frets: 7373
We've got a baby coming in December so I'm having to move all my stuff out of the spare bedroom and in to the garage.
The garage is alarmed and has a few locks, and I'll have everything inside insured so I'm not too worried from that end, but I'm looking for good ideas of things to put in there.

I'm already getting a carpet, and I've got someone coming out to quote for double glazing. I've got all the paint ready obviously.

https://i.imgur.com/e77kijP.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/4hrTLYz.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/nY34AnL.jpg

What could I put in there to help soundproof if anything?
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Comments

  • TheMarlinTheMarlin Frets: 7933
    Sound will bounce around in the corners, particularly bass tones.  Look into some sound deadening. 
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  • JalapenoJalapeno Frets: 6398
    I'd put a frost laminate on those windows or put some bars up.

    No point half-soundproofing IMHO, all the way or don't bother.  @Clarky uses headphones in his cave (well he did when I went there).

    Imagine something sharp and witty here ......

    Feedback
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  • ToneControlToneControl Frets: 11970
    how far are the neighbours, what do you plan to play in it? 50w amps?
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  • digitalscreamdigitalscream Frets: 26742
    If you're looking at soundproofing, I suspect the room-in-a-room approach is going to be your best bet. In terms of sound treatment...you're going to want curtains or a blind on the windows, and bass traps.

    Incidentally, all the locks in the world are unlikely to keep people out with those single-glazed windows. I'd imagine condensation might be a bit of an issue, too.
    <space for hire>
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  • TheMarlinTheMarlin Frets: 7933
    I destroyed a good portion of my record collection because of condensation.  Had them stacked below a single glazed window in a room over a warm kitchen. 

    I didn't spot the condensation until a large number of rare records had their sleeves turned to wet mush. 

    Utterly gutted. 
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  • DefaultMDefaultM Frets: 7373
    I'm going to be playing my axe fx through studio monitors, so not too loud. I'd like to be able to play through my amp in there but I don't think that's realistic. 

    The windows only overlook the garden so don't really need to obscure the view. I'm getting toughened glass though.
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  • digitalscreamdigitalscream Frets: 26742
    DefaultM said:
    I'm going to be playing my axe fx through studio monitors, so not too loud. I'd like to be able to play through my amp in there but I don't think that's realistic. 

    The windows only overlook the garden so don't really need to obscure the view. I'm getting toughened glass though.
    The reason for getting blinds isn't because the windows are transparent - it's because they're shiny and hard, and will reflect the sound.
    <space for hire>
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  • ClarkyClarky Frets: 3261
    Jalapeno said:
    I'd put a frost laminate on those windows or put some bars up.

    No point half-soundproofing IMHO, all the way or don't bother.  @Clarky uses headphones in his cave (well he did when I went there).

    I still do for practice, programming and composition
    I use the studio monitors for mixing so I choose specific times of the day for those tasks..

    I also use the monitors for teaching now because you don't exactly need high volume for that
    play every note as if it were your first
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  • xsheqxsheq Frets: 71
    Go here - http://gikacoustics.co.uk/

    Spend money.

    Be happy.
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  • BigMonkaBigMonka Frets: 1783
    Before decorating get a load of extra sockets put in - you can never have too many and the more you have the tidier you can make the cables to each bit of gear.
    Always be yourself! Unless you can be Batman, in which case always be Batman.
    My boss told me "dress for the job you want, not the job you have"... now I'm sat in a disciplinary meeting dressed as Batman.
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  • sweepysweepy Frets: 4200
    I fitted a seperate ring main to mine, saved a lot of crackles and switch noise from appliances etc 
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 16778
    is it insulated?
    if not I would board the walls out with some insulation behind... The right stuff may also help with soundproofing
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  • boogiemanboogieman Frets: 12420
    I think @Danny1969 is your man for advice. Seem to remember he converted his garage into a studio?
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  • DefaultMDefaultM Frets: 7373
    How would I tell if it was insulated? It looks like a normal garage from the outside, but then when you get inside the previous owner has put up plasterboard and has wired it all up to the mains.
    The greenhouse seems to get power from the garage also.
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  • sweepysweepy Frets: 4200
    Stud the wall with minimum of 25mm x 25mm batten and lay rock wool between the plasterboard and wall ,  double up the double glazed window and fit a second door. Lay solid rock wool block on the floor, top off with 18mm flooring chipboard. With the floor, make sure that the chipboard doesn't butt up to the wall, use a rubber strip to isolate the floor from the wall.
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  • Danny1969Danny1969 Frets: 10455

    Yes I converted mine and  I converted a friends a couple of years ago as well. With a bit of thought you can pretty much soundproof a garage down to around 90Hz . Stopping frequencies lower than that gets increasingly difficult the lower you go but luckily normal guitar has very little content below 100Hz ish

    To treat the walls batten them and line them with RW3 Rockwool, then a vapour barrier then 2 layers of 12mm plasterboard. Stagger the starting points so you don't get joints in the same place. All plasterboard joints should be taped and  filled and joints to the wall \ ceiling filled with acoustic \ fire caulking

    Don't flush mount plug sockets or light switchs ... you don't want anything cut into the plasterboard. Surface mount sockets and switchs on top of the plasterboard

    Replace any windows and doors with UVPC, measure yourself and fit yourself as normal builders will just under measure and fill the gaps after with foam and mastic because it's quicker and easier ....  which will mean the windows and doors will under perform acoustically.  Normal UVPC window sills and door sills are hollow and pass sound easily. Fill them with sand before fitting . Any gaps down the side or top should be filled with cement. Only use mastic as a water seal, there should be no gaps without the mastic. 

    To help a window stop sound better buy another equal sized double glazed unit and mount in around 8 inchs further inside. Bare double glazed glass units are cheap, around £40 for a typical sized window.  Likewise the door, preferably build another one inside 

    My roof was shit originally at stopping sound so I built another false roof below it using 18mm MDF boards hiding more rockwool and plasterboard. As the original rafters wouldn't support that I built the roof entirely self supporting on it's own legs. 

    I used record very late at nigh at pretty deafening volumes and didn't get any complaints













    www.2020studios.co.uk 
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  • capo4thcapo4th Frets: 4437
    Good detailed post Danny you have covered most aspects the 15mm high density soundproof board is very good and can be bought for very cheap if you know where to look ;-) avoid Wickes etc 
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  • DefaultMDefaultM Frets: 7373
    edited July 2016
    Great post but don't think I have the skills or money to do that at the minute. anguished 

    @sweepy when you say use rubber to isolate the floor from the wall what do you mean?
    At the minute the plasterboard has a few inch gap to the floor. I was thinking of getting skirting boards. Bad idea? Fill the gap with rubber instead?
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  • sweepysweepy Frets: 4200
    You can used rubber or neoprene strips to decouple the transmission line from wall to floor, basically acting like a rubber gasket 
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  • DefaultMDefaultM Frets: 7373
    It seems to have a loft space. I could go up in to there and fill with this rock wool stuff and that would help to insulate?
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