New workshop time (nearly there...)

Sporky

To be fair I'm not great with light bulbs.

m_c

If it makes anybody feel any better about the state of their shed/garage/workshop, this is the current state of my workshop -

The level of tidiness has not been helped by the small CNC mill spindle motor dying last week, so it's in bits across the workshop while it's modified to take a new motor. My goal for the next month is to get it reassembled, and re-establish some level of organisation before the next thing breaks.

Sporky

Blimey. I'm not normally a particularly tidy person, but that would distress me considerably!

m_c

It's distressing me! Although not quite as distressing as the beating my wallet has taken recently.

It was even worse yesterday, as I had the manual lathe dragged out to fit a digital readout system to it, so it was verging on the point of needing climbing boots and a set of ladders to get around the place.

I did have it semi-organised, to the point where there was clear floor space along the full length, and everything was at least grouped on shelves/benches, with each machines tooling nearby. But pretty much everything from the big mill outwards got taken out to get the small CNC mill in a few months ago, and I'm still trying to get things re-organised.

If I can get the mill reassembled, it'll get shoved back against the wall, and it's control box moved onto the floor, giving me some floor and desk space back. I was doing the final tuning for that to happen when the spindle died, so instead it got exploded across various surfaces again.

Sporky

I forgot to update. Not much workshop time today, but I did all the sums for the vices, got the tablesaw fully set up (motor suppressor was fouling on the table stopping the saw going vertical and the sliding table wasn't quite aligned), and cut a section off one of the worktop offcuts. That'll form the jaws.

Also I made the jig for routing the bolt head holes.

First I drilled a hole in a bit of wood (one of the offcuts from the crossbars):

http://monkeyfx.co.uk/pictures/new_workshop/190317 bolt jig/01 twas drillig.jpg

Then I golf-grip taped two other offcuts to it so the router would have enough space to run on stably. And compared with the washer, which was actually 30mm. So I'd drilled at 35mm.

http://monkeyfx.co.uk/pictures/new_workshop/190317 bolt jig/02 tada.jpg

Sporky

The bench is assembled!

http://www.monkeyfx.co.uk/pictures/new_workshop/180317 will the bennch ever end/20 bench assembled.jpg

Still to do... recess the bolts, attach the vices (the jaws are cut but there's a fair bit more to do there), cut a shelf for the side that won't have a tool cabinet, mount the rear upstand (which will sit in a little rebate), drill some bench dog holes and now that it's assembled it's become clear that the frame could do with some additional bracing - it'll take the weight happily but it creaks a bit. I'll probably do some ply panels across the back.

Then try to move it into position...

Andyjr1515

Splendid!

Sporky

Thank you!

Did some fettling to it over the last couple of days. The two worktops weren't lining up quite as neatly as I'd hoped, so I used a long spiral router bit and guide bushing to make the clearance holes for the bolts a bit bigger, then sash clamps and brute force to line up the edges. That means that the wooden vice jaws will mount squarely and be stable.

I also started work on the rebate to take the upstand that'll be at the back of the bench. I cut a 10mm deep slot with the railsaw, and I've set up a router with a fence and extended base so it'll be stable while cutting away the rest of the step. Should get that done this evening, then the upstand itself will pocket-screwed in.

Then the bracing panels will go on, then the vice jaws, then the vice mechanisms, then, erm, not sure. Ah - the shelf. Then it all gets moved to final position and the tool cabinet moved in.

I've also scored a nice 32" monitor for fiddy punt from work for the CNC PC. That might sound a bit big, but it means I can mount it well clear of the machine and still see what's going on.

Andyjr1515

I have huge admiration for anyone who can make any four-legged table without it wobbling, let alone making two!  I struggle even with three legged ones! 

Sporky

I cheated - it's two three-legged tables joined together.

The trick seems to be having a very flat floor and making all the legs the same length. It's pretty stable - you can sit on it happily - but I'm going to add more bracing anyway.

BigMonka

The bench looks great Sporky. I'm intrigued by the double-decker approach to the worktop, is a single kitchen worktop not deep enough for a workbench?

TTony

Sporky said:

It's pretty stable - you can sit on it happily - but I'm going to add more bracing anyway.

BigMonka said:

The bench looks great Sporky. I'm intrigued by the double-decker approach to the worktop, is a single kitchen worktop not deep enough for a workbench?

It's so that *I* would be able to sit on it.

Sporky

They're 40mm thick each. My previous workbench had about a 36mm double-layer MDF top (ie two pieces of 18mm MDF), and that was utterly solid because it was fitted into an alcove in a brick garage.

This'll be free standing, so in order to be certain it's not going to move around when I'm planing (or similar) I wanted it to be as heavy and solid as possible. I did a hand-tools course last April and the benches there were a mix of Sjoberg (too pricey at this point given what the workshop itself cost) and ones the school had made using double-thicknesses of solid beech worktop. So that's what I did.

Erm. Short answer; I don't know if 40mm is thick enough, I do know that 80mm is thick enough. And doing it in two layers means each layer can be moved fairly comfortably by two people. I don't think Lady BMcH and I could have safely moved a single 80mm-thick top onto the legs, but I think we'll be fine shuffling the finished thing across the workshop as that's a series of small lifts just high enough to get it off the floor and move it a step at a time.

Also the vices I wanted to use (lovely, lovely Veritas ones) require at least a 50mm thick top or a spacer, and they're not as rigid with a spacer.

BigMonka

Good answers @Sporky thanks.
I've got solid beech worktops in my kitchen - do you think my wife would notice if I move them into the garage as a workbench?

Sporky

I fear that she might.

These two cost me £260 plus shipping from worktop express, and the upstand was £20 for 3m. There's about £60 of poplar in the legs and frame, the ply for the bracing and shelf came from what was left over from the shed bases (otherwise about £40 worth?).

Markeebee

Fairly newbie and occasional poster here....I thought I had left a post on here earlier....obviously not.  It appears that I am the plank, not your workbench components.

Anyway, I work for a company that supplies workbenches, racking, materials handling and other similar shizzle to large manufacturers.  We often have some stuff knocking around that's been returned from clients, or we overorder stuff, or it gets slightly dinged in transit or whatever.

If you're looking for stuff (anybody, not just Sporky) feel free to give me a shout to see if we've got any freebies or extremely cheepies - can't guarantee that we'll have something at any time but it might save you a few bob.  We're based in Brighton, you'd need to arrange/pay for delivery, but otherwise I reckon we could chuck it out the back door for you.

Just a thought.  Carry on.

TTony

Now you tell us @markeebee - although if you've anything suitable in the workbench line, my original plan of using some old kitchen worktop needs a rethink, so I'd be interested ...

Sporky

Markeebee said:

Just a thought.  Carry on.

Well, I'm massively over budget at this point, so some low cost storage would certainly help!

Sporky

The upstand is on.

Here's how the bench began our evening. I'd cut a groove with the railsaw to define the edge of the rebate that the upstand will sit in, and assembled the router on its fence.

http://monkeyfx.co.uk/pictures/new_workshop/240317 die bench die/01 railsawn.jpg

Nine passes later (three depths at each of three widths so as not to overstress anything) and the rabett is cut. Out comes the pocket hole jig; I'm doing pairs of holes every 50cm. Probably over the top but why not.

http://monkeyfx.co.uk/pictures/new_workshop/240317 die bench die/02 groovy.jpg

Then I cut the upstand to length with a handsaw, clamped it in position and screwed it on. It is very solid.

http://monkeyfx.co.uk/pictures/new_workshop/240317 die bench die/03 clamped.jpg

TTony

That workshop is looking quite full ...

can you make some space?