Hi folks
Know there's a few cycling fans here, was hoping for some advice. I'm going to start cycling to work, its a short journey along a cycle path so thankfully an easy ride.
I need to buy some locks and a helmet.
I was looking at this lock:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B005YPK8G2Any thoughts? My bike will be locked up in my employer's underground car park when I'm at work so it will be relatively secure anyway, other than that it may occasionally get locked up for a bit when I'm in a shop or whatever.
Also, what's the "best" way to secure a bike? Any tips or guides?
Also, I need a helmet. I'm going to go to a shop and try some on, is there anything I should look out for or be wary of?
Cheers
Comments
Where I am in London the recommendation is normally to have 2 locks of different types if you want to be really secure but for your employers car park you should be fine with one. On the streets it depends where you are. Some places I just use one lock. A place I go to in Lambeth I always use 2.
Having said all that, Kryptonite are normally pretty good and that's probably a good lock to get.
I don't normally wear a helmet, but if you are getting one, the more expensive ones tend to have better ventilation so you don't get so sweaty.
This time of year you will need lights as well. Get some USB rechargeable LED ones - and don't skimp on them. If you are on roads at all then get a reflective coat. If your budget is limited then buy these ahead of a helmet. Making yourself visible and getting seen so that you avoid an accident in the first place is much better than relying on a flimsy polystryene helmet when you have an accident.
I've already got a safety yellow/reflective cycling jacket and reflective/yellow gloves.
Going to buy some cateye lights as well i think
When locking up your bike, best technique is to ensure the lock goes around the frame, part of the rear wheel, and then whatever immovable fixture you are locking to. That means the lock has to be compromised to get any significant part of the bike. Generally, use the cable to then secure your front wheel and you're pretty safe.
Helmets - all helmets are tested to the same standards, so just get a comfortable one. You won't notice much difference with vents etc. It needs to fit comfortably and not wobble about when only adjusting mechanism is used. The chin strap serves little purpose other than to keep the helmet on should you go over some rough terrain or a strong wind etc.
http://www.tredz.co.uk/.OnGuard-Pitbull-Shackle-U-Lock-Plus-Cable-Gold-Sold-Secure_61144.htm
It comes with a small cable too.
I *think* this is the one I use, together with a second, longer cable, and always a secondary lock (I leave a padlock and chain at work).
Good advice above about locking techniques and not skimping on lighting - you can buy 'see' or 'be seen' lights and I think the 'see' lights are worth the extra even just for in town. Side lights are a bit less essential
http://www.londoncyclist.co.uk/monkey-light-review/
Trading feedback: Previous (+18) and Current
Any light recommendations at the budget end? I need front and rear.
Knog do some decent stuff too regarding lights as long as you dont opt for the cheap stuff.
Vintage v400mh mahogany topped dreadnought acoustic FS - £100
I leave my good but HEAVY kryptonite lock at work & carry a wee cable lock in my bag for when I stop at the shops.
Wrt lights I have some reelight ones- permanently mounted on the bike & always on without batteries. Great for visibility & a real fit & forget option. I supplement them with other lights in winter.
If you're commuting I'd never go without panniers and mudguards- they'll save you getting muddy/sweaty.
Basically get the best lock you're prepared to spend the money on, particularly if it's an expensive bike.
If you're commuting you'll want at least mudguards, and ideally panniers too. The other advantage of panniers, other than bringing your work clothes, is you can just chuck the lock in the pannier when not in use, so a bulky lock is less of an issue.
For ultimate security, use a D lock through your rear wheel and rear triangle and whatever you're locking the bike to, and take your front wheel off and lock that in too.
The best rated one I've seen is an Abus Granit X-lock.
Mudguards I'm going to buy this weekend - need to get to a shop and check they fit!
Lights - what's the budget and where will you be riding? Well-lit roads or dark bike paths?
If you want a second set in addition to your main ones, I just use an energiser head torch with a cheap rear light from Tacky Macky's around my hat. If I had to replace them, I would try not to buy from Amazon but something like
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0022NHN4E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE
and
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Am-Tech-LED-Rear-Bicycle-Light/dp/B00A3A053O/ref=sr_1_1?s=officeproduct&ie=UTF8&qid=1478720508&sr=8-1&keywords=am+tech+rear+bike
But these would be supplementary to a proper set and just a cheap way to put a bit more light about.
Trading feedback: Previous (+18) and Current
You can get similar stuff in the UK now, probably better quality.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ultrafire-WF-502B-CREE-XM-L-T6-5-Mode-1000LM-LED-Flashlight-Lamp-Torch-18650-/271075922889?hash=item3f1d6253c9:g:0roAAOxyhTFSTfNN
Add a velcro mount
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Velcro-Bicycle-Torch-Flashlight-Handlebar-Mount-Bracket-Clamp-Bike-Lockblock-/302073677178?hash=item4654fe857a:g:~d0AAOxy79JRg~i9
And spare battery
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1x-UltraFire-18650-4200-3-7V-Rechargeable-Li-ion-Battery-for-Flashlight-torch-/331540532111?hash=item4d315b0b8f:g:skoAAOSwstxVPjgc
Or 2 batteries
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-UltraFire-18650-4200-3-7V-Rechargeable-Li-ion-Battery-for-Flashlight-torch-/331540533392?hash=item4d315b1090:g:w6IAAOSwymxVPjij
Big shout out to @mtb who made me a really generous offer to help out.
Think I'm sorted now (other than working out how to get a bike on the train...)
1. Two pairs are better than one
Lights break, batteries run out (albeit less likely if you get a rechargeable unit ... providing of course you remember to plug it in). Not good if your only light stops working just when you're relying on your bike to get somewhere (for example home from work).
2. Don't (just) flash
Many lights have the option of a constant beam, or a flashing one. A lot of cyclists use the flashing mode because they think it is more likely to catch the eye of other road users. That may be true - and it's legal according to the Highway Code - but it's also much harder to judge distance based on a flashing light alone. The HC allows for flashing rates as low as 1Hz - think about how far a car travels in one second, and how many other things the driver may need to look at during that time.
Some fancier units have a "pulse" mode, where the intensity varies over time but the light is always on. If yours doesn't have that, consider using two lights (see point #1) with only one of them in flash mode.
JM build | Pedalboard plans
Don't always ride in the gutter
I see a lot of cyclists doing this. I understand completely why - people generally don't want to feel that they are getting in the way of others, and when large metal objects are passing you at speed, it's natural to want to get as far away from them as possible.
But
- It can encourage drivers to pass too close. On a narrow carriageway (i.e. just a bit wider than a car), a minority of drivers will squeeze past a cyclist who is riding close to the kerb.
- It forces you to swing out to avoid debris or potholes.
I'm not suggesting that you always ride exactly in the middle of the carriageway, but in almost all situations you should keep a reasonable distance from the kerb - I reckon I typically leave 60-80cm.JM build | Pedalboard plans
Trading feedback: Previous (+18) and Current