Heater for my garage

DefaultM

I often take my laptop out to the garage to work in peace, but it's obviously very cold at this time of year. It's a proper carpeted double glazed room so once it's heated up its fine, but it takes ages using the 2000w standing heater I've got at the minute.

A few months ago I was having a look and I saw a really good heater for about £300 that fitted to the wall, but I now can't find what it was.

Does anyone have recommendations for a good heater like this? 

I've got electricity in there and everything so that's not a problem.
It would be good to get a radiator or something fitted, but I assume that would cost a lot of money.

spark240

Problem is heating any space in short bursts is difficult, an electric rad is good, but for short stints you may be better with some form of blower heater, a little more costly to run but much more satisfying to sit by !


https://www.electricradiatorsolutions.co.uk/?gclid=Cj0KEQiAiMHEBRC034nx2ImB1J0BEiQA-r7ctl-MHCzIZtTtukWZFY0q9zBo75g8yIAiUtvPjliq-GEaApgv8P8HAQ

Fuengi

Option if your insulation needs upgrading: 

Rather than spend £300 on a heater and have the heat just disappear, you could upgrade insulation with space blanket - available from Screwfix for around £100 - and go with a DeLonghi oil filled rad for about the same price from Argos. 

Leave it on frost setting and crank it up when you need the heat, half an hour before you go in. 

Sporky

I was going to say an oil filled radiator - they take a while to get going but they're reasonably efficient. Insulation is always going to be the best approach though.

Jalapeno

http://www.screwfix.com/p/stanley-st-52-241-e-freestanding-fan-heater-2000w/8020p

martinw

My garage is my workshop, so I know where youre coming from. Insulation and not letting it get too cold are the key.
I use tube heaters as background, on all the time, low.
I've got a convector heater for when I go in, and also a quick squirt with a fan heater until it warms up enough. Place it near where you sit.
Don't expect it to be t-shirt warm; put a thick jumper on.

Electro_Ham

Would a propane burner be out of the question? I'm pretty sure that would be the quickest way to get your garage up to temp the quickest of any method. You'd need to work out the costs aslo, but, I'm pretty sure that would be the biggest bang for your buck.
Also, look into halogen infra-red heaters.

Barney

These are good 
https://www.heatershop.co.uk/rointe-kyros-kri0550rad2-550w-electric-radiator-520mm-5-elements?gclid=CL6c-67O7tECFYeVGwodC5MIvg

You can set them to go on and off anytime in the day ...you can get various sizes for different size rooms ..there will be a guide on internet somewhere

ESBlonde

Screwfix have been sending me lots of adverts for offers on workshop heaters (which I have deleated) but some of them seemed quite worth the money for a blast of instant heat. As others have said insulation and a basic warmth of the rooms fabric enables the overall temp to be raised easier. When the walls, floor, ceiling and contents are stone cold they absorb any new heat before the air feels warmer.

Corvus

In my paint room which is a garage i have tarp lining the ceiling, that alone gets it very warm with wall heater panel things. No other insulation. Might be worth doing something similar (but prettier).

DefaultM

I might go up and put some insulation in the loft section. Can't insulate the walls without tearing the place apart and I don't really want to do that as I've just had my carpet and double glazing fitted. Unless there's an easy way to take down plasterboard walls?

Dominic

overboard them with a thermal insulated plasterboard OR buy 10 cans of Foamfill and make a few little 5mm holes in the studwork and spray it in - a small amount expands hugely and the make good is next to zero

richardhomer

Petrol/match/thread....

DefaultM

Dominic said:

overboard them with a thermal insulated plasterboard OR buy 10 cans of Foamfill and make a few little 5mm holes in the studwork and spray it in - a small amount expands hugely and the make good is next to zero

The foam sounds interesting. Does it make much difference compared to tearing down and doing it 'properly'?

DefaultM

@Dominic have you got a link to the foamfill please?

Dominic

the foam will be a Polycyanurate type similar to the sprayed on lagging that you find on copper cylinder types - it is highly thermal efficient and very similar to the foam you find on Cellotex insulation or thermal wall board -it will be the most thermal efficient material you can possibly use .Probably Screwfix or Selco are your best bet for a bulk pack of 10 or similar.
  You will also get a huge acoustic proofing uplift.
It will be very easy to infill the area between each stud  perhaps one little hole in the plasterboard at 75 cm centres from bottom to top -just pop the nozzle in and spray.
 Downside is that really you should have a 40-50mm airgap with a throughflow of a little air to prevent condensation within when the Dewpoint is low because it may sweat .The worst upshot over a long period of time is that the timber studs will eventually start to rot if not pre-tannalized but personal experience tells me that you need not worry for 5 years probably .
It is more a case of bad practice than imminent disaster ..........so what ....? sfter 5 years you may have to tear it down and re-board with insulation properly with an air gap ........thats a long time away -it may not ever be necessary .
 BTW - i am a building surveyor

Dominic

Oh , overboard your ceiling or take a bit of roof off and fill it with polystyrene pebbles which you can just tip in because that will be one of your primary SAPS heatloss areas as will a concrete floor ( put a foil underlay under the carpet )

Sambostar

Dominic said:

Oh , overboard your ceiling or take a bit of roof off and fill it with polystyrene pebbles which you can just tip in because that will be one of your primary SAPS heatloss areas as will a concrete floor ( put a foil underlay under the carpet )

Is this not a fire hazard?  Have you seen that shit on fire?  You die very quickly from smoke inhalation.

octatonic

The cheapest to run are halogen or oil filled.

I have an Delonghi oil filled heater in the garage that stays on throughout the winter, set fairly low.
The room is around 13 degrees, which is fine to do the bike maintenance stuff.

DefaultM

What do you do with the foam when you get around the plug sockets and light switches? Just squirt it in and don't worry?

We're pretty sure that the roof is made from asbestos. It's the sheeting stuff so only a problem if you start chipping bits off and handling it, but I won't be able to cut it out and tip those beads in.

Dominic

Sambostar said:

Dominic said:

Oh , overboard your ceiling or take a bit of roof off and fill it with polystyrene pebbles which you can just tip in because that will be one of your primary SAPS heatloss areas as will a concrete floor ( put a foil underlay under the carpet )

Is this not a fire hazard?  Have you seen that shit on fire?  You die very quickly from smoke inhalation.

NO -its all Fire-rated at 1 hour resistance -more than required in new converted flats 
check the product fire -rating code at FP 60
 You are thinking of the packaging type of polystyrene -there are proper building certified products