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Mixing at 4-1 i did 16ml of plastic coat + 4ml of hardener that gave me enough for 2 full light coats (done 2 hours apart)
After trying a few of my brushes on a test piece the other day i ended up using a 1" Wilko Nook and Cranny brush
Ive used them before on picture frame refinishes as the they have a tapered end they don't load much and give a very nice smooth finish (i just break off the handle at the bend) also there only £1.50 each and im a cheap bastard
And DAM RPC really does stink and i was glad i spent some decent money on an 3m mask last year for my rattle can spraying!
i would not use this stuff in your house.
Anyhow's i grabbed a few pics of the first 2 coats & my phone's camera isn't great indoors so these are a little more orange than IRL
I'll move the RPC stuff to a build thread once i do a few more coats.
if you are taking your time with the RPC, it will last a week or so in a sealed container once you mix it. Even longer if it's stored somewhere cold
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http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/61134/sarge/p1
Missed my re-coat window by an hour this morning so rather than risk wrinkle i'll let it go for another day and i'll start on a cured layer tomorrow.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/20852209/IMG_2377%20-%20Copy.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/20852209/IMG_2379.JPG
the pic below is after about the 8th thin'ish coat had just gone on,i'll get another 4 coats on this Sunday and then leave it for a week to cure solid before buffing it out
What ratio of RPC to thinners are you using? and do you get much time to fix runs etc before it gets thick /sticky?
http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/61134/sarge/p1
Im using the rustin's recommend 4-1 so 4ml of hardner & 16ml of plastic coat which gives me 2 full coats im keeping the workshop at about 14 degrees c while im applying it so it doesn't start to tack up much while i brush it on moving to to a warmer area of the house to cure,infact i left the glass jar with about 15ml in out overnight in the shop and it hadn't even filmed over 2 days later.
Ive been coating front > side wipe over to catch runs >back>full coat on sides
I was going to leave it to set for a week but on checking today after a light sand back it seems to have a little sink on some of the soft grain area's of the ash veneer'ed front so many be 1 or 2 more coats on just the front before i set it to cure for a week.
http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/61134/sarge/p1
I have plenty of Tru oil I could put over the top, and I think I may even have some of the crimson finish oil, too, but I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong.
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So if I give it another bunch of hard work a la @WezV's post above with some Tru-oil, would that get me closer, then?
Or do I need to do anything else inbetween the Crimson finishing oil and the Tru-oil?
@everyone - apologies for being such a numpty, generally. I'm one of those for whom a little knowledge is clearly a dangerous thing.
Crimson finishing oil and Tru Oil are more or less the same thing - do read and follow the warnings about rag disposal and self-combustion.
A *little* cutting paste/t-cut or whatever for the final buff.
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Got the RPC glossed up
There's been some slight sink back of the RPC into the olive ash veneer in a few places which i'll touch up over the weekend
Over all i have to say im really happy with the Results of the Crimson stains and the RPC and i'll be using both again very soon.
Before
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii21/paulnb57/imagejpg1_zpsd0071ce2.jpg
After
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii21/paulnb57/image_zpskfg4xedx.jpeg
Instagram
However one Cherry red guitar is enough for me.....but, I do have a Mahogany with Flame Maple thinline tele body that needs a refinish and will be built for th'grandson, so will use it on that, the rest I will probably give away on here.....
Heres how much I used on the LPjr, thats 4 coats on all the body, the back of the neck and the back of the headstock......
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii21/paulnb57/image_zpsfigjipld.jpeg