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Go for a single speaker with decent power handling (ideally twice the amp) in a 1x12 and I promise it will be a lot quieter for home use than a 4x12 and will allow you to drive the amp that bit more.
I've built five amps from kits or established schematics / layouts, and I'm thinking that a JTM from someone like Modulus / TAD (may be too expensive) or WeberVST might be my next project.
I know, and accept that the resale value won't be the same, but I won't be building it with that in mind.
Is there particular mojo in the components that Marshall use - due to the maker or spec of transformers, for example?
https://www.gumtree.com/p/guitar-instrument/marshall-jtm45-2245-ri-classic-guitar-amp-head-ppimv-master-volume-other-upgrades-/1212074839
He says it has a new solid state rectifier, now I'm not up on my electronics so was wondering what that does in connection to the rectifier valve? Once again thank you for any help you can give.
A solid-state rectifier could be a simple plug-in unit that replaces the valve - which is ideal, and can easily be put back to a valve if you want - or a bodge inside involving soldering diodes across the socket, or other unnecessary modding. (Some techs do this.)
I would want to see how the PPIMV has been done too - fitting it in that position isn't good practice because it means leading the cabling back across past the preamp, which can cause instability. The best place is in the second speaker jack hole.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
https://i.imgur.com/akmctpx.jpg
Part 2 needs looking inside the chassis and he may not be willing to do that, but the worst case scenario is that it needs a small amount of work to move the MV control. It is possible it's fine anyway, if he's used decent shielded cable and routed it properly.
At £650 I'd take the chance, if you're keen .
As Voxman said, jumping the channels gives you a small gain boost and the ability to get a fuller tone by blending in Channel 2, which is usually too dark and muddy to use on its own. You can still do that with this, since there's one input left on that channel.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
i think i might just take a punt at that price, I just hope it doesn't sell today as I'm in hospital having a liver biopsy!
(Also, all the best for the procedure)
I prefer mine with the channels jumpered, dial the bright channel up to the required volume then add a bit of the normal channel in to fatten it up. The other benefit of a clone is you can get them in a small box head so they actually fit the 2061 cab.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b371/Markcupra/ACFD5F84-74DB-4311-8D48-2DFD753B8235_zpseykjuvy5.jpg
Trading feedback: http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/72424/
https://marshallamps.com/products/amplifiers/vintage-re-issues/1962-bluesbreaker/
Trading feedback: http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/72424/
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Marshall-JTM-Bluesbreaker-Guitar-Amplifier-/232207884427?hash=item3610ab208b:g:7-oAAOSwLEtYfIqR