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Danish ladies love it though. Either that or bacon fat.
Or as a substitute for baby oil.
so im curious to know what you have on the go there...?
1980 Tokai LS-80
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I use it as a simple sealer when I'm not looking for a permanent finish - a little dab'll do ya.
I've never had an issue with it ?
I did use it as a finish applying it in coats 24 hours apart, nibbed down and then buffed with a high quality reducing compound. It just stinks to high hell for the next three months.
These days I use it as a simple sealer, but it still stinks.
As a rule i would say danish oil does not stay tacky. but if its being applied to thickly, or if its applied to a particulalry oily piece of wood (cocobolo/bocote levels of oilyness) or if there was alreayd some kind of waxyfinish on the wood i would not be surprised if it had issues curing properly. There are also many products sold as 'danish oil' that may be differnent forumations and therefore react in different ways. - so quite a few reasons you may have had the experience you did
I know Rustins and Wilkinsons own brand danish oil does work well for guitars. Part of the process, no matter how its applied is to thorughly rub off the excess after a few minutes. If this is not done the residue will stay tacky
from the instructions:
Apply liberally with a clean rag or brush and wipe off the surplus oil after a few minutes.
I mainly use tru-oil now, because its harder wearing and needs less maintenance. But i still turn to Danish oil for certain woods (i hate tru-oil on wenge). I still have some i finished with danish oil years back and whilst they needed a bit more maintenance for the first year or two they now have a natural patina that feels great
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just because you do, doesn't mean you should.