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"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Looking at the strings coming out of the the nut on a LP really jars to an engineer's eye, it's just an awful bit of design.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
To get straight string pull over the nut , just make tuners with a longer shaft to the key so they can be moved further into the headstock . You still keep the Les Paul headstock shape and i think it would look fine .
Gibson could have done this on a version of the Les Paul (the modern player is it ? ) and still kept the original design on the standard .
...see you all next week when it goes out of tune and I start seething again! ;-)
View my feedback at www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/comment/1201922
thanks I can go back to knowing the little I know now. Which besides the normal snags, badly cut nuts, string angle, and the whole guitar tuning is technically a compromise but one that works for, etc etc, the difference between 25” PRS and a standard Gibson is negligable in terms of being more or less in tune and changing the scale length on a les Paul would do little I could hear.
it was only the fact that I considered Rick his Tech and crew to be far more knowledgable than me.
The absolute most tuning-stable guitar I've ever used was my 1965 Fender Jaguar, which has a 24" scale as well as loads of other things "wrong" with it according to many so-called experts. It just never went out of tune, even when using the trem.
And the most perfectly intonated guitar I've ever used is my Rickenbacker 660/12 - yes you did read that right, Rickenbacker 12-string . OK this model does have a 12-saddle bridge, but out of curiosity I once checked it on a good tuner and every note, at every fret on every string, was in tune to within 1 cent apart from a couple of the thickest strings at the last fret. And that has a 24-3/4" scale too.
The only thing the scale length *by itself* affects is the string tension. Of course it isn't quite as simple as that in practice because many other things are usually different between guitars with different scale lengths... but not actually due to the scale length.
For example, on a PRS the head angle is lower than on a Gibson, and the string splay angles at the nut are very much less - these will both have a great bearing on the tuning stability. Also, the PRS nut is in a slightly compensated forward-set position which makes them sound more in tune.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Some of the recent variants with the robo-tuning gubbins have a nut made from non-traditional materials. This item can be problematic. It is not particularly well regarded.
@icbm @WezV Could I ask some advice please (pictures in the link below)...Do you any thoughts on the height of the bridge and tailpiece height? It looks really high compared to what I've seen on other guitars? Does it need fixing? From a looks point of view, I think it looks ugly and would much prefer it closer to the body, but worry how I'd get the strings to maintain a nice action? Also do you think that flare looks ok? I'm getting the G string going less out of tune, but only because I need to give it a good stretch before playing for a length of time.
Here are the pictures for you ...
https://photos.app.goo.gl/M1fPEYCDtrAmJedu1
View my feedback at www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/comment/1201922
The nut looks OK now. My experience is that an over-high bridge leads to tuning problems as well though - I'm not totally sure why, since if the tailpiece is also raised then the break angle won't be any sharper than if both were lower, but it's possible the bridge can flex the posts slightly when there's more length sticking up out of the body.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
View my feedback at www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/comment/1201922
Unfortunately there is only one practical solution to this problem...
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
1. Be really honest/critical about how well you restring - how many winds? is it locking back upon itself?
2. Ditto stretching in
3. Lubricate
Things to get someone experienced to help with:
4. Get the nut re-cut
View my feedback at www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/comment/1201922
I do this on all my LPs, and use EB skinny top-heavy bottom strings--10-52, works a treat for me.
one thing i notice, after i take them out of the case--they are always bang in tune.
If the guitar were mine, I would want to get the G, D and A string nut slots rounded out more on the headstock side.
I have recently had to perform exactly this task on a Bitsacaster with a Jackson/Charvel-style headstock with no string clamp. Yowza! Six crazy slot angles.
View my feedback at www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/comment/1201922