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A longer travel *harmonica* bridge might look fugly but should provide sufficient range of adjustment to achieve accurate intonation.
Take a look at the underside of the Höhner Rockwood bridge. It might have a Sung-il part identity number embossed. (BM002?) You need the type labelled BM003. It will fit the existing Metric studs.
The first thing to do is to reverse the D saddle, and probably the A and the E as well - I always do this when setting up a far-east tune-o-matic and it always improves things.
But if you still can't get the E and B far enough forward, the only easy(ish) solution is going to be to move the bridge - the neck is already fitted correctly into the pocket unfortunately. I don't think a wide-travel bridge will fit those posts.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
ICBM, I am going to reverse the D,A & E saddles which I think will allow those strings to intonate correctly but it will still leave the E, B & G strings slightly flat I think.
I have measured the bridge position in relation to the end of the neck on both guitars & on this one it is nearly 1cm further back than the other, weird.
The rest of the guitar is in very good condition & I would like to sort this out as I have some mods planned for it.
The simplest solution is a Kahler .
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
In fact, it looks like you only have to move the treble side post - that would also have the advantage of correcting the string alignment on the fingerboard, which is slightly off.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Well spotted ICBM
What do you suggest I plug the old post hole with, a dowel, filler, combination of both ?
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Or a plug rather than a dowel because you can then have the grain going the right way. It makes it easier to cut, sand and finish, so re-drilling accurately is much easier. Never filler, that's the important message
You don't need to measure where to put it when drilling. String up the guitar with the bridge floating on some shims. Get it in the position where it intonates best. Mark your drill holes from that
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Occasionally the saddles stick and you need to lever them out with the screwdriver under the screw head and over the next one along.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Looking at the above diagram for a replacement bridge the "width" of the bridge is given as 14mm.
My bridge is 10.8mm wide.
Could this be my problem ?
Would the above bridge give me about 1mm further travel each way on the saddles ?
If it did that would probably cure my problem as the strings are only very slightly flat.
All the other dimensions including post hole diameter match my bridge so it would be a straight swap.
If so, no - because the saddle bases are wider and can’t travel as far in the slots as plain ones, and the roller itself has the take-off point in the middle.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Maybe a different bridge exists that can be placed on the current posts and allow you a mm or 2 extra travel, but it wouldnt surprise me if thats not quite enough.
Also has the downside of not allowing any extra should you need it in months to come.
That's almost certainly *why* it's designed with 11mm slots, to give the same overall travel as the non-roller version.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
On one of my other LP copies I have a non roller bridge with the same type saddles as on the Hohner but the saddle slot is nearly 5mm wider.
I am pretty sure that that would give me the movement I need.
I can"t really try that bridge on the Hohner though as it has different diameter post holes but if I could get that bridge with the correct diameter post holes it would save me plugging & re-drilling.
Also once plugged & drilled I would need to re-finish the areas & I have no idea how to do that.
The saddle slots are 11mm wide as compared to my ABR-1 bridges 7mm.
It should give me an extra 2mm of forward movement which should be plenty to intonate properly.
Anyway I have ordered one.