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"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
A model-maker’s needle file is probably the next best, or you could use a junior hacksaw blade if you hammer it flat first - otherwise it will make a double groove and the string will click from side to side.
You don’t need to go very deep, just far enough that the sides of the groove are steep enough that the string won’t jump out. You’re unlikely to notice a change in the action.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
I wouldn't butcher your bridge until you've explored other options.
10, 13.5, 17, 26, 35, 52
Would going to 11's be that much better?
It was still popping out and after closer inspection the A comes out too.
All Gretsch players rave about the Tru Arc SerpenTune bridges. You can get a low rider version for guitars with thumb screws.
It might go down that route one day. Aluminium or Titanium would be my next decision. I have another gig tonight so might have to get the tools out
I love the Tru Ark Lowrider Serpentune, but the saddle groves are no deeper than your Tom. So you need to solve the problem before you replace the bridge.
Mine is aluminium, but Titanium is worth the extra cost. https://imgur.com/a/OjMtyRq
I have just ordered some different strings. I normally got for Hex core strings (d'addario) but have purchased some round core DR and GHS strings. Hopefully will see an improvement before doing anything else.
I believe if you ordered directly you can get the grooves dug a little deeper!
So that pic is a tru arc serpertune?
http://jefjamdesign.com/truarc/index1.html is this just a standard tru arc? I see on the f holes website you can order it with low rider, bigsby compensated (spacing) and sepertune or standard.
I do not like the standard Tru Ark. I’ve had a standard Tru Ark on two guitars, and had to get rid. The bridge just sat too high, and the only way to get the string height correct was to sand the bridge wooden base. The Compton is designed to prevent that problem. I’ve had lots of Comptons, never had a problem, am a big fan.
If if you have a floating bridge, the Compton Titanium is the bees knees. For a factory pinned bridge, Tru Ark Serpentune lowrider is the best. Though, Compton now do one for pinned bridges (Electromatic), though I’ve not tried it.
Thats just my personal experience. Here is one of my Comptons. https://imgur.com/a/lNTs0cX
Classy looking bit of kit!
I’m banned from Gretsch Talk (made a Trump joke, and the moderator banned me on the spot), what do the guys over there have to say I’m out of the loop on newer models.
Oh, BTW, who made your pick guard? Lovely work.
Cheers
Marlin
https://quickguards.com
I ended up ordering 3 in different colours! Gold, Silver and what is currently on there Aged white. Amazing quality! Better than stock. Smoother finishing around the end and nicer finish. Paint doesn't come off!